Monday, November 24, 2008

Question #6 Where to purchase my book

Dear Eric.
Greetings from Uganda and thanks so much for your unceasing support you do give to us through your materials,they are helpful.Its today that i have come across your materials, but i do believe they are helpful. I am a technician by profession, i would like to purchase your book entitled Troubleshooting and Repairing major Appliances 2 Edition, but i don't know where to access this book, and the easiest payment method that you can recieve the money and how to order for the book, please help me and clarify me on this, God bless and hear from you soon
Daniel From Uganda

Daniel,
I apologize for not getting back to you sooner.
You can purchase the book on the following website.

www.amazon.com

This company ships books world wide.
Please let me know if you have any problems purchasing my book.

Dear Eric,
Thanks so much for your response, i am grateful, and i will let you know if i happen to get problems in purchasing that book there,God bless you and thank you so much for all your endavours.
Daniel From Uganda

Daniel, You can also purchase my book from the publisher, McGraw-Hill.
If anyone has problems purchasing my book, please fill free to contact me.

Sunday, September 21, 2008

Dishwashers - Washability Problems


Water Temperature
The temperature of the incoming water is critical to the operation of a dishwasher. Most
dishwashers have heaters, and some have delay periods that extend the time during which
water is heated to a specified point, but this does not fully compensate for low temperature
of the water supply. You can check the temperature of hot water at the sink nearest to the
dishwasher with a thermometer. Open the hot water faucet. Let the water run until it is as hot
as possible, and then insert the thermometer into the stream of water. On some models, if the
thermometer reading is below 140 degrees Fahrenheit, you will have to raise the water heater
thermostat setting. On other models, the dishwasher was designed to operate with water
temperatures as low as 120 degrees Fahrenheit. These models have longer detergent wash
periods that allow 120-degree Fahrenheit supply water to be heated up to a temperature that
gives good washability results. The dishwasher delay periods occur in only one, two, or three
of the water fills, and do little for the remaining rinses. Except during delay periods, the water
is not in the dishwasher long enough to be heated adequately.

The Detergent
The kind and amount of dishwasher detergent that is used is an important part of getting
the dishes clean. Different brands of dishwasher detergent contain different amounts of
phosphorous, which works to soften water and prevent water spots. If the water is hard,
you will have to instruct the customer to use a detergent with a higher phosphorous
content—above 12 percent. If the water is soft, the customer can use a low-phosphorous
dishwasher detergent. Some areas restrict the phosphate content to 8 percent or less. This
means that the customer will have to increase the amount of detergent used in those areas
where the water is hard. This is done by adding 1 teaspoon of dishwasher detergent manually in the main wash cycle for each grain of water hardness above 12 grains (water hardness is measured in grains):
• 0 to 3 grains for soft water
• 4 to 9 grains for medium-hard water
• 10 to 15 grains for hard water
• Over 15 grains for very hard water.
If the hardness of the water supply is unknown, contact the local water department.
Always instruct the user to use automatic dishwasher detergent only. The use of soap,
hand dishwashing detergent, or laundry detergent will produce excessive suds and will
cause flooding and damage to the dishwasher.

Loading the Dishwasher
When loading the dishes into the dishwasher, make certain that you load the top and bottom racks according to the use and care instructions provided by the manufacturer. Overloading the dishwasher will provide poor washability and an unhappy consumer.

Step-by-Step Troubleshooting by Symptom Diagnosis

Poor Washability on the Upper Rack
1. Is the upper spray arm turning?
a. Are the holes in the spray arm plugged?
b. Check to see if the spray arm is split.
c. Is there uneven loading of the dishes?
d. Check the filter assembly for blockage.
e. Check the lower impeller to see if it is defective or blocked with debris.
f. Are any objects protruding down that might prevent the upper spray arm from
rotating?
2. Is the water charge okay?
3. What is the temperature of the water entering the tub? Is the temperature at 140 degrees Fahrenheit?
4. Is the user using the proper amount of detergent?
5. Is the detergent dispenser functioning properly?
6. Are the dishes loaded properly? Ask the user to load the dishwasher so that you can observe whether he or she is loading the dishwasher properly.
Poor Washability in the Lower Rack
1. Is the lower spray arm turning?
a. Are the holes in the spray arm plugged?
b. Check to see if the spray arm is split.
c. Is there uneven loading of the dishes?
d. Is the spray arm binding on the housing?
e. Are any objects protruding down that might prevent the lower spray arm from
rotating?
2. Is the water charge okay?
3. What is the temperature of the water entering the tub? Is the temperature at 140 degrees Fahrenheit?
4. Is the consumer using the proper amount of detergent?
5. Is the detergent dispenser functioning properly?
6. Are the dishes loaded properly? Ask the user to load the dishwasher so that you can observe whether he or she is loading the dishwasher properly.
Poor Drying
1. Is the water hot enough? Check the water supply temperature. On certain models,
check to see if the cycle extender is functioning properly.
2. Is the heater working?
a. Check the wiring.
b. Check the timer or the electronic control board.
c. Check for the correct voltage.
d. Check the heater itself.
e. Check the heater fan assembly.
3. Is a wetting agent being used?
4. Check the door baffle.
5. Check the vent system.
6. Suggest that the user open the door a little after the dry cycle has been completed.

Please send me your how-to questions (eric@erickleinert.com) and I'll answer them in this forum, helping you decide if you can fix your appliances yourself or if you need to call a professional.

Monday, August 18, 2008

Weather Safety for Appliances & Air Conditioning Equipment

When I awoke today and turned on my computer to Weather.com, I found out that my home state of Florida is under a hurricane watch. So I began to prepare for the worst. I put up my shutters, stocked up on food, water, and gas for my generator. I am now prepared to weather the storm. In a couple of days the sun will shine again.

How to prepare your appliances and air conditioning equipment in the event of a hurricane.
Before bad weather arrives in your neighborhood, lower the temperature settings (colder) on the refrigerator, freezer, and air conditioning equipment. You can use your appliances and air conditioners normally until the electric starts to flicker or go out completely. When this occurs, turn off the refrigerator, freezer, and air conditioner controls. Also, make sure that the controls on the other appliances are turned to the off position. This will prevent the equipment from trying to restart. If the electrical voltage drops below 10% of the amount needed to run the equipment, it might cause damage to your appliances and air conditioning equipment.

Refrigerators and Freezers
Fill empty plastic soda bottles to 3/4 full of water and freeze them. This will help keep your food cold when the electricity goes out. Also, let your ice maker run and fill plastic bags of ice cubes to keep food cold. You might want to consider installing a surge protector or time delay to protect the compressor from short cycling. These parts are available at your local parts supply house. When the electricity goes off, turn the ice maker to the off position, try not to go into the refrigerator/freezer to often, with the doors closed, the temperature will remain constant.

Air Conditioning Equipment
You might want to consider installing a time delay to protect the compressor from restarting before the sealed system has a chance to equalize. This part is available at your local parts supply house. On room air conditioners, check around the outside of the case and the bottom of the unit to make sure that all openings are sealed, and the air conditioner unit is installed properly according to the manufacturer's specifications. Also, close the fresh air vent to prevent driving rains from entering the inside of the air conditioner and the home.

Washer and Dryers
Before a storm arrives, clean your clothes. I remember from the last storm, we began to run out of clean clothing. The electricity was off for three weeks. You do not have to turn off the water supply. Make sure that you have clean and dry clothing for up to three weeks.

Water Heaters
On electric water heaters, make sure that the clock timer is set to the on position. The clock timer is an add on device used to allow the water heater to cycle on at certain times that the consumer presets. When the electricity goes out at least you have one more hot shower. No need to turn off the water supply to the tank. On gas water heaters, run them normally.
If you do not have water pressure to the home, shut off the inlet valve to the water heater tank and turn off the electric or gas supply. This action allows you to have an extra supply of water if needed after the storm passes. The water heater tank can be drained as needed for survival purpose. If you use the water from the tank for drinking purposes, boil it first.

Dishwashers
Make sure to run and clean the dishes before the storm makes landfall and electricity goes out. You do not have to turn off the water supply to the dishwasher. Also, make sure to have disposable plates, bowls, and flatware. If you run out of the disposables, then use your dishes and silverware.

Garbage Disposer
Run the disposer to remove the debris from the drain and pipes. This will prevent funny smells from coming up the drain when the electricity goes out. Make sure that the switch is in the off position when the electricity goes off.

Microwave Ovens & Ranges
Make sure that all controls are in the off position when the electricity goes out. You might want to consider preparing some cooked meals in case you lose power during the storm. After the storm passes by, it will be easier to reheat the food on the grill.

Operating Appliances and Room Air Conditioners on a Generator
There are times when we have to seek alternate sources of electricity to run appliances and room air conditioners. Many people are installing, have installed, or about to purchase an auxiliary power generator as an alternative. When purchased or purchasing a generator, you will have to take into account what appliances you intend to run off of it.
When you consider running lights, appliances, and room air conditioners on a generator, you must calculate how much wattage is needed for each product, including the start-up wattage. In addition, the voltage (120 or 240) and cycles (60) are critical for proper operation of appliances and air conditioners. If the voltage is less than 10 percent of the operating voltage, refrigerators, freezers, and room air conditioners will not operate properly, which might cause damage to the components in the product. Any variations in the cycles could speed up the clocks, or slow them down. It is also important when searching for a generator that it has the ability to regulate the voltage and has surge protection for use with appliances and room air conditioners. Check with the generator manufacturer for warranty, operation, installation, and sizing of generator before purchasing.
Never use a gas powered generator in the home during a hurricane. Wait until the storm has passed by, then place the generator outside the home, away from the building for safe operation. Read the use and care guide that comes with your generator before turning it on.



Sunday, August 10, 2008

Appliance Question #5 Lint on clothing

I received an email from Joy:
I can't find the answer to something that I am having a big problem with, and I'm hoping that you can help me and my family out.

We bought a Maytag Atlantis Washer and Dryer about 2 years ago. Generally both machines run fine and we are happy with them.

But the washer has a big problem with lint. Dark clothes come out covered in lint, even though I am careful to separate our clothes. I wash only dark clothes by themselves and white clothes by themselves. Yet the dark clothes are covered with white lint.

What am I doing wrong? I don't overload the machine - quite the opposite.

Should I run the washer with no clothes every so often to clean out the lint filter?

Is there some way I can access this self cleaning filter myself and clean it?

I answered via email, but I wanted to share my response with you:

Lint is cotton fiber that has broken away from the cotton garment. Lint likes to attach itself to
synthetic fabrics. When this happens, the user often thinks that the washer is not performing
properly. Therefore, to solve the problem of lint on synthetic fabrics, the user must sort the
items before washing the clothes.
For example:
• The user must separate cottons from permanent press and knits.
• The user must separate light colors from dark colors.
Another cause of lint on clothes is overwashing. This causes the clothes to wear out
faster. To correct the overwashing problem, use only one minute of wash time per pound of
dry laundry with normal soil. Any more time than this is a waste, and it usually does not
get the laundry cleaner.
If the drain cycle is excessive, this, too, will cause lint to remain on the garments.
Check for improper drain hose connections. For example:
• Drain hose is too long (over 10 feet)
• Drain hose is too high (over 5 feet)
• Drain hose is kinked
If excessive drain times still exist, check the following:
• Check the filter, located under the wash basket on most newer models.
• Check to be sure that the pump is operating properly.
• Check for any obstructions in the drain system.
• Check for any obstructions within the water circulatory system of the washer.
Also, check the outer tub for buildup of soap scum which contains a buildup of lint, etc.
Once the inner basket is removed from the washer it will be easier to clean off this substance.
Last of all you must follow the use and care instructions that came with your washer.

Joy, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.

Sunday, August 3, 2008

Refrigerators and Freezers

Refrigerator/Freezer Maintenance

The inside of the cabinet should be cleaned at least once a month to help prevent odors from building up. Of course, any spills that might happen should be wiped up immediately. Wash all removable parts by hand with warm water and a mild detergent; then rinse and dry the parts. The inside walls of the cabinet, the door liners, and the gaskets should also be washed using warm water and a mild detergent, rinsed, and dried. Never use cleaning waxes, concentrated detergents, bleaches, or cleansers containing petroleum products on plastic parts. On the outside of the cabinet, use a sponge with warm water and a mild detergent to clean dust and dirt. Then rinse off and dry thoroughly. At least two times a year, the outside cabinet should be waxed with an appliance wax or with a good auto paste wax. Waxing painted metal surfaces provides rust protection. The defrost pan, which is located behind the toe plate or behind the cabinet, should be cleaned out once a month. The condenser coil should also be cleaned of dust and lint at least once a month. The floor should be free of dirt and debris when the cabinet is rolled out away from the wall. After the cabinet is rolled back into place, you must check to be sure that the
cabinet is level.
Always follow the manufacturers use and care guide for proper maintenance and installation of your product.

Sunday, July 13, 2008

Appliance Question #4: Microwave parts hard to find

I received an email from Bob:
The label that was on the back of my 'Little Litton' has gone to another world!
Bottom line, I do not find any S.N. or other data to identify it. Consequently, I do not know how to order a new control knob for the front. Mine died......
I appreciate your offer for assistance. If the knob is universal, perhaps there might be one available in Norman, OK or nearby OKC, OK
Thank you.


I answered him via email, but I wanted to share my response with you:


The serial number is not needed to purchase parts. If you still have the use and care guide that came with the microwave, you might find the model number listed in the guide. You will need the model number to order the parts needed. Also, if you remove the outer cover you might find a model number printed on the inner cabinet or the frame.

Litton Industries, is now owned by Northup Grumman. You might want to give them a call to see if the parts are still available. Another place to look is on the web. There are part companies that sell only microwave parts and they might have what you need.

The cost of purchasing a new microwave vs. the repair of the old microwave is a decision that you might want to consider since the prices for a new microwave is cheaper than repairing the old one.

Bob,
let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.

Thursday, July 3, 2008

Summer is here: Room Air Conditioner Maintenance



It's time to save some money on high electric bills.



Room air conditioners (including portable models) have air filters that need cleaning every
225 to 360 fan hours of operation. The discharge grille area also needs vacuuming to remove
the dust buildup. Twice a year, the following areas need to be inspected and cleaned:



• The evaporator coil
• The condenser coil
• The evaporator pan and base pan
• The indoor blower housing and blower wheel
• All the wiring connections and wiring
• The electrical and mechanical controls
• The voltage at the receptacle
• The inside and outside of the air conditioner
• All gaskets
• The drain system (clean it, too)
• The cabinet seal (clean the outer cabinet)
• The copper tubing

When cleaning the air conditioner, use an approved cleaner to wash the unit. Remember
to protect the electrical components and fan motor with plastic to prevent the water from
damaging the components. Refer to the use and care manual that comes with every air
conditioner for further maintenance instructions on the model you are servicing. Do not plug
in or run the air conditioner after using water to clean the unit. Wait a few hours, allowing
the air conditioner to completely dry out.

To prevent electrical mishaps, the air conditioner
must be totally dry before you can plug it in.

For more information on appliance and air conditioner maintenance and repairs order a copy of my book.

Monday, June 30, 2008

Appliance Question 3: Dryer will not start

I received an email from Rick:

I HAVE A KENMORE DRYER MODEL 110.84832202. IT WILL NOT START. YOU CAN SELECT THE DRYER CYCLE, EXAMPLE, THE AUTO CYCLE NORMAL, THE TIMER LIGHTS UP ALONG WITH THE OTHER LIGHTS, YOU PRESS AND HOLD THE START BUTTON TO BEGIN. THERE IS A CLICK, LIKE THE SOUND OF A SWITCH, AND THEN A BEEP. THE DRYER DOES NOT START. I CHECKED THE DOOR SWITCH AND THE LIGHT GOES OFF WHEN THE SWITCH IS DEPRESSED, SO I BELIEVE THE DOOR SWITCH IS OK. WHAT COULD BE WRONG?

I answered him via email, but I wanted to share my response with you:

Locate the technical data sheet under the top of the dryer and run the dryer in the service mode to determine the problem. Its possible that a thermal fuse has blown. Also, are there any error codes?

Rick, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.

Thursday, June 26, 2008

Appliance Question 2: Range Cooktop to Hot

I received an email from Fredd:

THE METAL TOP OF MY STOVE HAS BEEN GETTING SO HOT THAT WE STOPPED USING IT. SUGGESTIONS?

I answered him via email, but I wanted to share my response with you:

Check the vent in the rear burner. Make sure that the vent is in the correct position.

Fredd, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.

Saturday, March 1, 2008

Purchasing a new microwave oven

Do not go out and purchase a microwave oven until you do your homework. Brand, type, size, power, features, warranty, and location are just some of the features you need to consider. You can also go on the Internet and conduct research. When comparing microwaves, fill out the following checklist.
Check all that apply.
Measure the area available for the microwave oven:
_____________width
_____________depth
_____________height


Before purchasing, read the installation instructions for the built-in or over-the-range model you are considering.
These instructions will provide you with information such as cutout dimensions, venting, voltage location, and more.


What is the voltage?
❑ 120 volts ❑ 240 volts

What type of microwave?
❑ Countertop ❑ Over the range
❑ Combination ❑ Convection
(range and microwave)

❑ Under the counter ❑ Built-in ❑ Other (list the features)

How much room do I need to fit the microwave oven on the countertop?
❑ Large: 22 to 27 inches wide by 13 to16 inches high by 15 to 21 inches deep
❑ Medium: 20 to 24 inches wide by 16 to 16 inches high by 13 to 18 inches deep
❑ Small: 18 to 20 inches wide by 10 to 12 inches high by 11 to 12 inches deep

❑ Touch-pad controls:
❑ Are the numbers large and easy to read?
❑ Is the oven easy to program?
❑ Does the model display prompters that will guide you as you set the controls?
❑ Mechanical controls:
❑ Does the mechanical timer have a wide time range setting?
❑ Seconds? ❑ Minutes? ❑ Hours?
❑ Is there an on/off switch to operate the oven after setting the time function?
❑ Does the timer knob turn on the oven after setting the time function?

How many watts of cooking?
❑ 400 to 700 watts ❑ 600 to 800 watts
❑ 800 to 1000 watts ❑ 1000 to 1600 watts

What additional features do you want?
Does the oven have a light inside the cavity?
❑ yes ❑ no
❑ Auto defrost
❑ Pre-programmed cooking
Is there a window in the door?
❑ yes ❑ no
Does the oven have a rack?
❑ yes ❑ no
Do you want a turntable for the food to rotate on?
❑ yes ❑ no
Does the model have multi-stage cooking?
❑ yes ❑ no
❑ Temperature probe
❑ Cooking sensors
Will my plates fit the oven cavity?
❑ yes ❑ no
❑ Other (list here)

Additional information on warranties, safety, recalls, and maintenance must be taken
into account when purchasing a microwave oven. Ask the salesperson for a demonstration
on the microwave you are considering.

For more information on appliance and air conditioner selection and purchasing order a copy of my book.

Sunday, February 24, 2008

Product failure

Given the information about the product’s problem, information and diagnostic charts
from my book, and the information you have read in the use and care manual, as the
servicer, you will be able to perform the following steps in sequence to diagnose and
correct a malfunction. The basic steps to follow when diagnosing an appliance or air
conditioner problem are:
1. Verify the complaint. Ask the consumer what symptoms were caused by the
problem with the appliance or air conditioner.
2. Check for external factors. For example: is the appliance or air conditioner installed
properly, does the product have the correct voltage, etc.?
3. Check for physical damage. Look for internal and external physical damage. Any
damage will prevent the appliance or air conditioner from functioning properly.
Two examples are broken parts at the base of the washing machine or a damaged
cabinet that prevents the doors from closing properly.
4. Check the controls. The controls must be set to the proper settings. If the controls
are not set correctly, the appliance or air conditioner might not function properly or
complete its cycle.
5. Operate the product. Operate the appliance or air conditioner, and let it run
through its cycle. Check the cycle operation against the operational sequence of
events that is listed in the use and care manual.
6. Is the product operating properly? If it is, explain to the consumer how to operate
the appliance or air conditioner according to the manufacturer’s specifications.
7. The product is not operating properly. If the appliance or air conditioner is not
operating properly, proceed to locate which component has failed. Check the diagnostic
charts that are listed in this book to assist you in the correct direction to take.

Monday, February 18, 2008

How to diagnose a problem

There are many different ways to diagnose a problem, but all of them basically use the
same reasoning of deduction:

• Where does the consumer think the malfunction is located within the appliance or
air conditioner?

• Where is the actual problem located within the appliance or air conditioner?

• Are there any related problems with the appliance or air conditioner?

• How can the problem with the appliance or air conditioner be solved?

For example, the consumer states that the dryer does not dry the clothes and believes
that the heating element is bad. The actual problem might be a restricted exhaust vent, a
clogged lint filter, bad heating elements, faulty operating thermostats or safety thermostat,
or improper control settings.
When checking the dryer, you might notice that the control settings are set for air drying
instead of heat drying. Thus, the actual problem was that the control settings were not
positioned correctly. The related problem is: “How did the control setting move to the air-dry
position?” This leads to the question: “Does the consumer know how to operate the dryer?” To
solve this problem, you will have to instruct the consumer in the proper operation of the dryer.
All appliances and air conditioners go through a certain sequence of events. Understanding
the proper operation and this sequence as indicated in the use and care manual is beneficial
when diagnosing the appliance or air conditioner.

Sunday, January 13, 2008

Appliance Question 1: Refrigerator Too Cold

I got my first question, from Ken, about his refrigerator.

Ken asked:

I HAVE A JENN-AIRE SIDE BY SIDE THAT RECENTLY HAS BEEN GETTING EXCESSIVELY COLD IN THE FREEZER SECTION. NO MATTER HOW LOW I SET THE FREEZER, IT STILL WILL NOT COME ABOVE -10 DEGREES. I HAVE MADE SURE THAT THE FREEZER AIR VENTS ARE NOT BLOCKED, BUT THIS DOESN'T SEEM TO HELP. ANY SUGGESTIONS?? THANK YOU VERY MUCH AND HAPPY HOLIDAYS.


I answered him via e-mail, but I wanted to share my response with you:

If the thermostat (cold control) becomes unresponsive to change in the settings, you may have to replace the thermostat. The normal temperature in the fresh food section should be between 35 and 40 degrees F. The freezer section should be between 0 and -8 degrees F. Check the temperatures in the freezer and the fresh food sections before replacing the thermostat.

Ken, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.

Blogging


Welcome to the new blog! As a teacher, I knew when I wrote the second edition of Troubleshooting and Repairing Major Appliances, that this book was needed in our technical and vocational classrooms.

I also wanted to reach a larger audience: people who weren't sure if they should buy the book or not, people who were trying to figure out if they were capable of fixing their home appliances.

That's what this blog is for. Please send me your how-to questions (eric@erickleinert.com) and I'll answer them in this forum, helping you decide if you can fix your appliances yourself or if you need to call a professional.