Hello,
I have a 3 year old Kenmore Ultra Wash dishwasher. I am noticing this week that the water inside is not getting hot. Typically when open the door to put something in that I have forgotten I have massive amounts of steam coming out. This week I have seen almost no steam. I have tested the water in my sink and it is 130 degrees F. I have also tested my washing machine and my bathroom sink and shower that water is the same.
Do washing machines have a thermomenter? Could it be possible that mine is broken? Is this something we can fix ourselves or do I have to call a repairman? My husband is faily handy-- he has fixed our dryer before by watching a you tube video and we have a friend who is a plumber who installed the dishwasher for us. I would love not to call for service if I do not have to.
I look forward to a response.
Lisa
My response to Lisa:
First check your setting on the dishwasher panel. Some dishwasher models have a energy saver button that will not allow the heater to come on during the cycle to save money. Also, the first wash water in the dishwasher could be cold water coming from the water pipes from the water heater. This is normal. Some model dishwashers have a thermostat mounted to the bottom of the tub to sense the water temperature within the tub. This thermostat will stall the wash cycle until the water temperature rises to 140 degrees.
I hope this information is helpful.
Lisa responded back:
We pushed the button that says "High Temp" that seems to have solved the issue -- right now. Thanks for your help!
Happy Holidays!
Lisa
Please send me your how-to questions (eric@erickleinert.com) and I'll answer them in this forum, helping you decide if you can fix your appliances yourself or if you need to call a professional.
Saturday, December 11, 2010
Friday, December 10, 2010
Dishes are not coming out clean
The dishes are not coming out clean. I have tried different brands of detergents
with no results. All the glasses have a white film rather than being clear and
the dishes have stains on them. Tonight I sat in front of the dishwasher and
checket it out after each cycle. It seems to me that it just sits there during
the washing cycle for the longest time and there were lots and lots of suds in
dishwasher. I am guessing about the cycle as the dishwasher panel does not not
have anything but "pots and pan", "normal" "dry" and "rinse and hold". Could the
soap be sticking the the dishes too long?
It is a kitchen aid about 15 years old. When problem started I changed the
tablets I was using to liquid, for a while it got better but now is even worse.
What form of detergent is best to buy?
I am not ready to buy a new one, especially when I hear the bad experiences
friends have had with fairly new dishwashers.
Any help would be appreciated. Don't want to go back to washing dishes by handl
Thanks
RSL
My response to RSL
Dishwashers are similar to automatic clothes washers. They apply three kinds of energy on
the things to be washed. These forces are:
• Mechanical energy: Water that is sprayed on to the dishes to remove the food
particles.
• Heat energy: Using hot water to liquefy the fats and greases on dirty dishes.
• Chemical energy: Detergent dissolve the fats and greases off the dishes.
Dishwashers perform four basic functions that are modified and put together in different
ways to create the various cycles. The four functions are:
• Fill
• Wash/rinse
• Drain
• Dry
As with clothes washers, the only difference between the wash and rinse cycles is the
presence of detergent in the wash water. The mechanical activities that make up a wash and
a rinse cycle are basically the same function.
Unlike clothes washers, most dishwashers fill and begin to wash (or rinse) at the same
time. The functions are put together in various ways to make up different cycles
The temperature of the incoming water is critical to the operation of a dishwasher. Most
dishwashers have heaters, and some have delay periods that extend the time during which
water is heated to a specified point, but this does not fully compensate for low temperature
of the water supply. You can check the temperature of hot water at the sink nearest to the
dishwasher with a thermometer. Open the hot water faucet. Let the water run until it is as hot
as possible, and then insert the thermometer into the stream of water. On some models, if the
thermometer reading is below 140 degrees Fahrenheit, you will have to raise the water heater
thermostat setting. On other models, the dishwasher was designed to operate with water
temperatures as low as 120 degrees Fahrenheit. These models have longer detergent wash
periods that allow 120-degree Fahrenheit supply water to be heated up to a temperature that
gives good washability results. The dishwasher delay periods occur in only one, two, or three
of the water fills, and do little for the remaining rinses. Except during delay periods, the water
is not in the dishwasher long enough to be heated adequately.
The kind and amount of dishwasher detergent that is used is an important part of getting
the dishes clean. Different brands of dishwasher detergent contain different amounts of
phosphorous, which works to soften water and prevent water spots. If the water is hard,
you will have to instruct the customer to use a detergent with a higher phosphorous
content—above 12 percent. If the water is soft, the customer can use a low-phosphorous
dishwasher detergent. Some areas restrict the phosphate content to 8 percent or less. This
means that the customer will have to increase the amount of detergent used in those areas
where the water is hard. This is done by adding 1 teaspoon of dishwasher detergent manually in the main wash cycle for each grain of water hardness above 12 grains (water
hardness is measured in grains):
• 0 to 3 grains for soft water
• 4 to 9 grains for medium-hard water
• 10 to 15 grains for hard water
• Over 15 grains for very hard water.
If the hardness of the water supply is unknown, contact the local water department.
Always instruct the user to use automatic dishwasher detergent only. The use of soap,
hand dishwashing detergent, or laundry detergent will produce excessive suds and will
cause flooding and damage to the dishwasher.
Poor Washability on the Upper Rack
1. Is the upper spray arm turning?
a. Are the holes in the spray arm plugged?
b. Check to see if the spray arm is split.
c. Is there uneven loading of the dishes?
d. Check the filter assembly for blockage.
e. Check the lower impeller to see if it is defective or blocked with debris.
f. Are any objects protruding down that might prevent the upper spray arm from
rotating?
2. Is the water charge okay?
3. What is the temperature of the water entering the tub? Is the temperature at
140 degrees Fahrenheit?
4. Is the user using the proper amount of detergent?
5. Is the detergent dispenser functioning properly?
6. Are the dishes loaded properly? Ask the user to load the dishwasher so that you
can observe whether he or she is loading the dishwasher properly.
Poor Washability in the Lower Rack
1. Is the lower spray arm turning?
a. Are the holes in the spray arm plugged?
b. Check to see if the spray arm is split.
c. Is there uneven loading of the dishes?
d. Is the spray arm binding on the housing?
e. Are any objects protruding down that might prevent the lower spray arm from
rotating?
2. Is the water charge okay?
3. What is the temperature of the water entering the tub? Is the temperature at
140 degrees Fahrenheit?
4. Is the consumer using the proper amount of detergent?
5. Is the detergent dispenser functioning properly?
6. Are the dishes loaded properly? Ask the user to load the dishwasher so that you
can observe whether he or she is loading the dishwasher properly.
Etching occurs when the glass is pitted or eroded. It appears as a permanent film on the
glass. The beginning stages of etching can be identified by an iridescent look—shades of
blue, purple, brown, or pink when the glass is held at an angle to the light. In the advanced
stages of etching, the glass surface appears frosted or cloudy.
Possible cause: Certain types of glass will etch in any dishwasher with the combination of
soft water, the alkalinity of dishwasher detergents, and heat.
Solutions: There is no way to remove the filmy appearance caused by etching; the damage
is permanent. There is no way to predict what glassware might be affected—it is not
related to the cost or quality of the glass.
RSL,let me know if that worked for you.
Please send me your how-to questions (eric@erickleinert.com) and I'll answer them in this forum, helping you decide if you can fix your appliances yourself or if you need to call a professional.
with no results. All the glasses have a white film rather than being clear and
the dishes have stains on them. Tonight I sat in front of the dishwasher and
checket it out after each cycle. It seems to me that it just sits there during
the washing cycle for the longest time and there were lots and lots of suds in
dishwasher. I am guessing about the cycle as the dishwasher panel does not not
have anything but "pots and pan", "normal" "dry" and "rinse and hold". Could the
soap be sticking the the dishes too long?
It is a kitchen aid about 15 years old. When problem started I changed the
tablets I was using to liquid, for a while it got better but now is even worse.
What form of detergent is best to buy?
I am not ready to buy a new one, especially when I hear the bad experiences
friends have had with fairly new dishwashers.
Any help would be appreciated. Don't want to go back to washing dishes by handl
Thanks
RSL
My response to RSL
Dishwashers are similar to automatic clothes washers. They apply three kinds of energy on
the things to be washed. These forces are:
• Mechanical energy: Water that is sprayed on to the dishes to remove the food
particles.
• Heat energy: Using hot water to liquefy the fats and greases on dirty dishes.
• Chemical energy: Detergent dissolve the fats and greases off the dishes.
Dishwashers perform four basic functions that are modified and put together in different
ways to create the various cycles. The four functions are:
• Fill
• Wash/rinse
• Drain
• Dry
As with clothes washers, the only difference between the wash and rinse cycles is the
presence of detergent in the wash water. The mechanical activities that make up a wash and
a rinse cycle are basically the same function.
Unlike clothes washers, most dishwashers fill and begin to wash (or rinse) at the same
time. The functions are put together in various ways to make up different cycles
The temperature of the incoming water is critical to the operation of a dishwasher. Most
dishwashers have heaters, and some have delay periods that extend the time during which
water is heated to a specified point, but this does not fully compensate for low temperature
of the water supply. You can check the temperature of hot water at the sink nearest to the
dishwasher with a thermometer. Open the hot water faucet. Let the water run until it is as hot
as possible, and then insert the thermometer into the stream of water. On some models, if the
thermometer reading is below 140 degrees Fahrenheit, you will have to raise the water heater
thermostat setting. On other models, the dishwasher was designed to operate with water
temperatures as low as 120 degrees Fahrenheit. These models have longer detergent wash
periods that allow 120-degree Fahrenheit supply water to be heated up to a temperature that
gives good washability results. The dishwasher delay periods occur in only one, two, or three
of the water fills, and do little for the remaining rinses. Except during delay periods, the water
is not in the dishwasher long enough to be heated adequately.
The kind and amount of dishwasher detergent that is used is an important part of getting
the dishes clean. Different brands of dishwasher detergent contain different amounts of
phosphorous, which works to soften water and prevent water spots. If the water is hard,
you will have to instruct the customer to use a detergent with a higher phosphorous
content—above 12 percent. If the water is soft, the customer can use a low-phosphorous
dishwasher detergent. Some areas restrict the phosphate content to 8 percent or less. This
means that the customer will have to increase the amount of detergent used in those areas
where the water is hard. This is done by adding 1 teaspoon of dishwasher detergent manually in the main wash cycle for each grain of water hardness above 12 grains (water
hardness is measured in grains):
• 0 to 3 grains for soft water
• 4 to 9 grains for medium-hard water
• 10 to 15 grains for hard water
• Over 15 grains for very hard water.
If the hardness of the water supply is unknown, contact the local water department.
Always instruct the user to use automatic dishwasher detergent only. The use of soap,
hand dishwashing detergent, or laundry detergent will produce excessive suds and will
cause flooding and damage to the dishwasher.
Poor Washability on the Upper Rack
1. Is the upper spray arm turning?
a. Are the holes in the spray arm plugged?
b. Check to see if the spray arm is split.
c. Is there uneven loading of the dishes?
d. Check the filter assembly for blockage.
e. Check the lower impeller to see if it is defective or blocked with debris.
f. Are any objects protruding down that might prevent the upper spray arm from
rotating?
2. Is the water charge okay?
3. What is the temperature of the water entering the tub? Is the temperature at
140 degrees Fahrenheit?
4. Is the user using the proper amount of detergent?
5. Is the detergent dispenser functioning properly?
6. Are the dishes loaded properly? Ask the user to load the dishwasher so that you
can observe whether he or she is loading the dishwasher properly.
Poor Washability in the Lower Rack
1. Is the lower spray arm turning?
a. Are the holes in the spray arm plugged?
b. Check to see if the spray arm is split.
c. Is there uneven loading of the dishes?
d. Is the spray arm binding on the housing?
e. Are any objects protruding down that might prevent the lower spray arm from
rotating?
2. Is the water charge okay?
3. What is the temperature of the water entering the tub? Is the temperature at
140 degrees Fahrenheit?
4. Is the consumer using the proper amount of detergent?
5. Is the detergent dispenser functioning properly?
6. Are the dishes loaded properly? Ask the user to load the dishwasher so that you
can observe whether he or she is loading the dishwasher properly.
Etching occurs when the glass is pitted or eroded. It appears as a permanent film on the
glass. The beginning stages of etching can be identified by an iridescent look—shades of
blue, purple, brown, or pink when the glass is held at an angle to the light. In the advanced
stages of etching, the glass surface appears frosted or cloudy.
Possible cause: Certain types of glass will etch in any dishwasher with the combination of
soft water, the alkalinity of dishwasher detergents, and heat.
Solutions: There is no way to remove the filmy appearance caused by etching; the damage
is permanent. There is no way to predict what glassware might be affected—it is not
related to the cost or quality of the glass.
RSL,let me know if that worked for you.
Please send me your how-to questions (eric@erickleinert.com) and I'll answer them in this forum, helping you decide if you can fix your appliances yourself or if you need to call a professional.
Friday, June 11, 2010
Refrigerator ice dispenser not working properly?
I received an email from Heather,
Hello. I'm hoping you can help me fix my problem. I have a Kenmore limited edition 26' black side by side refrigerator. Everything works perfects, except for the ice dispenser on the door. The ice maker inside the freezer works, but it won't produce it from the dispenser on the door. What could be the problem?? Is this an easy fix?? I'm not even sure where to start. PLEASE HELP!
My response back to Heather was:
Sometimes the fix is easy. When you want to get ice through the door the auger motor turns the auger in the ice bucket which allows the ice to travel to the door and through the dispenser door. If you hear the auger motor turning check for a ice cube blockage in the door. It is recommended that you clean out the ice bucket. Sometimes an ice buildup in the ice bucket can prevent ice from turning in the ice bucket. If you hear nothing when you press the pad on the door for ice, then I would recommend that you call for a service repairman to take a look at it.
Heather, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.
Hello. I'm hoping you can help me fix my problem. I have a Kenmore limited edition 26' black side by side refrigerator. Everything works perfects, except for the ice dispenser on the door. The ice maker inside the freezer works, but it won't produce it from the dispenser on the door. What could be the problem?? Is this an easy fix?? I'm not even sure where to start. PLEASE HELP!
My response back to Heather was:
Sometimes the fix is easy. When you want to get ice through the door the auger motor turns the auger in the ice bucket which allows the ice to travel to the door and through the dispenser door. If you hear the auger motor turning check for a ice cube blockage in the door. It is recommended that you clean out the ice bucket. Sometimes an ice buildup in the ice bucket can prevent ice from turning in the ice bucket. If you hear nothing when you press the pad on the door for ice, then I would recommend that you call for a service repairman to take a look at it.
Heather, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.
Monday, May 24, 2010
Purchasing a new range
Peter writes:
HI ERIC, I ENJOY YOUR WEB SITE. I have to buy a oven range and have a budget of 700 and under. What is a good brand my old GE was 20yrs .
My response to Peter is:
I recommend that you pick a oven/range with the most features and the best warranty within your budget. Use the checklist below to help you on your venture.
Additional information on warranties, safety, recalls, and maintenance must be taken
into account when purchasing a range. Ask the salesperson for a demonstration
on the range you are considering.
For more information on appliance and air conditioner selection and purchasing order a copy of my book.
Peter, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.
HI ERIC, I ENJOY YOUR WEB SITE. I have to buy a oven range and have a budget of 700 and under. What is a good brand my old GE was 20yrs .
My response to Peter is:
I recommend that you pick a oven/range with the most features and the best warranty within your budget. Use the checklist below to help you on your venture.
Checklist for cooking products
I also recommend before you go to the store to select and purchase a range, cooktop, oven, etc., that you take the time to fill out the following checklist to take with you. Check all that apply to your selection:
Check the area available for the range
_____________width
_____________depth
_____________height
These measurements are the cut-out measurements not the old range measurements. Also make sure that the range can fit through the openings of the house, so that it can be installed where you want it.
The type of range you are looking for:
__Free-standing with one oven
__Eye-level (High-low) with two ovens
__Eye-level with one oven
__Built-in
__Drop-in
__Slide-in
__Electric
__Gas
__LP ___natural
Type of oven you are looking for:
__Single
__Double
__Conventional
__Microwave
__Combination oven
__Convection
Oven location
__Below cooktop
__One over, one under
__Separate built-in oven(s)
Oven controls
__On back console
__On range front
__On hood
__Dial-type
__Touch pads
__Automatic oven clock/timer
Cleaning system
__Self-cleaning (pyrolytic)
__Continuous
__Manual
Broiler type
__Top-of-oven
__Low broiler
__Variable heat
Cooktop style
__Conventional
__Glass-ceramic
__Grille/griddle convertible
__Induction
Cooktop controls
__Thermostatic control
__Eye-level controls
__Eye-level controls on hood
__Controls on back splash
__Controls at front of cooktop
Accessories
__Rotisserie
__Roast temperature probe
__Griddle
Venting system
__Separate hood
__Built-in down draft
__Vent-microwave oven combination
__Hood attached to upper oven
__Vent over regular cooktop
__Vent over grill/griddle cooktop
The color of the range preferred
________________________________
Price range: $________________
Warranty and service information:___________________________
Additional information on warranties, safety, recalls, and maintenance must be taken
into account when purchasing a range. Ask the salesperson for a demonstration
on the range you are considering.
For more information on appliance and air conditioner selection and purchasing order a copy of my book.
Peter, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.
Saturday, March 6, 2010
Carbon Monoxide (C0) - How much is too much?
My daughter called me today to tell me that her CO (carbon monoxide) detector has been sounding off all day today and what should she do. When I heard this I immediately told her to open the windows and contact the gas company to check her gas appliances and gas furnace. I also asked her when did she last changed the batteries in her CO detector? She said the batteries were new. Luckily the gas company was open on a Saturday evening and they told her to contact the the fire department. When the fire department came out to her home they checked the home for CO (carbon Monoxide) and found that the CO levels were between 2-4 ppm (parts per million). They advised my daughter if the CO detector goes off again to call the fire department back again. Lets hope she does not have to. My daughter has a young baby and the baby will be more acceptable to CO poisoning at the lower levels than adults.
I told my daughter to go out and buy two new CO detectors with the capabilities of reading CO levels between 50-70 ppm. Also, have the gas company come to the home on Monday to check the gas appliances and gas furnace to make sure that they are operating within the manufacturers specifications.
Carbon monoxide (CO) is a toxic gas that can cause death if inhaled in copious amounts.
It is odorless, colorless, and has no taste. The human body cannot detect carbon monoxide
with its senses. When carbon monoxide is inhaled, it is absorbed into the bloodstream and
stays there longer, preventing oxygenated blood from performing its job in the body. Two
factors affect the amount of carbon monoxide absorbed into the bloodstream: the amount of carbon monoxide in a room and the length of exposure. Lower levels of CO inhalation can
cause flu-like symptoms, including headaches, dizziness, disorientation, fatigue, and
nausea. Other exposure effects can vary depending on the age and health of the individual.
Carbon monoxide in homes without gas appliances varies between 0.5 to 5 parts per
million (ppm). CO levels in homes with properly maintained gas appliances will vary from
5 to 15 parts per million. For those gas appliances that are not maintained properly, carbon
monoxide levels may be 30 ppm or even higher.
Testing for Carbon Monoxide
Consumer products for detecting carbon monoxide in a home have been on the market for
years. Carbon monoxide detectors should have an alarm that alerts consumers before they
are exposed to hazardous levels of carbon monoxide. In order to prevent false alarms, CO
detectors must be able to distinguish carbon monoxide gases from other types of gases, such
as butanes, heptane, alcohol, methane, and ethyl acetate. Two manufacturers that you can
visit on the Internet to view the different types of carbon monoxide detectors available
include www.kidde.com and www.firstalert.com.
Technicians who test for carbon monoxide use a special handheld meter to check the
levels of carbon monoxide in a room or home.
When to check for carbon monoxide in a home:
• When the consumer complains of headaches or nausea
• Houseplants are dying
• Unknown chronic odors from unknown sources
• Condensation on cool surfaces that might lead to flue gas products in the home
If you see any of these conditions contact you gas company. You may save your life and your family.
Gas Safety
The following are a few safety tips to help you in handling major gas appliances and gas furnaces in your home:
• Always follow the manufacturer’s use and care manual for the gas appliance.
• Always keep combustible products away from gas appliances.
• Keep your gas appliance clean from soot, grease, and food spillages.
• Teach your children not to play near or with gas appliances.
• Always have a fire extinguisher nearby just in case of mishaps that might lead to a fire.
• Have a smoke detector and a carbon monoxide detector installed in the home, and
check the batteries yearly.
• Never use a gas range to heat the home.
• Make sure that gas appliances have proper venting according to the manufacturers’
recommendations.
If you have oil fired furnaces they must be checked for proper CO levels too.
CARBON MONOXIDE LEVELS
12,000 PPM Death within 1-3 minutes
1,600 PPM Nausea within 20 minutes, death within 1 hour
800 PPM Nausea and convulsions, death within 2 hours
400 PPM Front headaches within 1-2 hours; life threatening within 3 hours
70 PPM If CO at this level for four hours, your CO detector should be sounding
50 PPM MAXIMUM average level for a continuous exposure in an eight hour workday per federal law
10-35 PPM Marginal levels - small children, elderly, and those suffering respiratory or heat problems from chronic exposure
9 PPM Measured around a busy street and intersections
1-9 PPM These concentrations may not be avoidable without life style changes
Indoor air quality (IAQ) is very important to us all. Please check this link for further information on Carbon Monoxide.
http://www.epa.gov/iaq/co.html
Safety reminder to all, have your gas appliances and gas furnaces inspected for proper operation. This also includes oil fired furnaces too.
I told my daughter to go out and buy two new CO detectors with the capabilities of reading CO levels between 50-70 ppm. Also, have the gas company come to the home on Monday to check the gas appliances and gas furnace to make sure that they are operating within the manufacturers specifications.
Carbon monoxide (CO) is a toxic gas that can cause death if inhaled in copious amounts.
It is odorless, colorless, and has no taste. The human body cannot detect carbon monoxide
with its senses. When carbon monoxide is inhaled, it is absorbed into the bloodstream and
stays there longer, preventing oxygenated blood from performing its job in the body. Two
factors affect the amount of carbon monoxide absorbed into the bloodstream: the amount of carbon monoxide in a room and the length of exposure. Lower levels of CO inhalation can
cause flu-like symptoms, including headaches, dizziness, disorientation, fatigue, and
nausea. Other exposure effects can vary depending on the age and health of the individual.
Carbon monoxide in homes without gas appliances varies between 0.5 to 5 parts per
million (ppm). CO levels in homes with properly maintained gas appliances will vary from
5 to 15 parts per million. For those gas appliances that are not maintained properly, carbon
monoxide levels may be 30 ppm or even higher.
Testing for Carbon Monoxide
Consumer products for detecting carbon monoxide in a home have been on the market for
years. Carbon monoxide detectors should have an alarm that alerts consumers before they
are exposed to hazardous levels of carbon monoxide. In order to prevent false alarms, CO
detectors must be able to distinguish carbon monoxide gases from other types of gases, such
as butanes, heptane, alcohol, methane, and ethyl acetate. Two manufacturers that you can
visit on the Internet to view the different types of carbon monoxide detectors available
include www.kidde.com and www.firstalert.com.
Technicians who test for carbon monoxide use a special handheld meter to check the
levels of carbon monoxide in a room or home.
When to check for carbon monoxide in a home:
• When the consumer complains of headaches or nausea
• Houseplants are dying
• Unknown chronic odors from unknown sources
• Condensation on cool surfaces that might lead to flue gas products in the home
If you see any of these conditions contact you gas company. You may save your life and your family.Gas Safety
The following are a few safety tips to help you in handling major gas appliances and gas furnaces in your home:
• Always follow the manufacturer’s use and care manual for the gas appliance.
• Always keep combustible products away from gas appliances.
• Keep your gas appliance clean from soot, grease, and food spillages.
• Teach your children not to play near or with gas appliances.
• Always have a fire extinguisher nearby just in case of mishaps that might lead to a fire.
• Have a smoke detector and a carbon monoxide detector installed in the home, and
check the batteries yearly.
• Never use a gas range to heat the home.
• Make sure that gas appliances have proper venting according to the manufacturers’
recommendations.
If you have oil fired furnaces they must be checked for proper CO levels too.
CARBON MONOXIDE LEVELS
12,000 PPM Death within 1-3 minutes
1,600 PPM Nausea within 20 minutes, death within 1 hour
800 PPM Nausea and convulsions, death within 2 hours
400 PPM Front headaches within 1-2 hours; life threatening within 3 hours
70 PPM If CO at this level for four hours, your CO detector should be sounding
50 PPM MAXIMUM average level for a continuous exposure in an eight hour workday per federal law
10-35 PPM Marginal levels - small children, elderly, and those suffering respiratory or heat problems from chronic exposure
9 PPM Measured around a busy street and intersections
1-9 PPM These concentrations may not be avoidable without life style changes
Indoor air quality (IAQ) is very important to us all. Please check this link for further information on Carbon Monoxide.
http://www.epa.gov/iaq/co.html
Safety reminder to all, have your gas appliances and gas furnaces inspected for proper operation. This also includes oil fired furnaces too.
Sunday, January 17, 2010
Refrigerator ice and water dispensor has brown stuff coming out of it.
Heather writes:
We have a Kenmore refrigerator with a filtered water/ice dispenser on the front. For the past few months, a very strange brown gunk has been coming out of the water dispenser in little flakes. Most of the time, we'd just pour the water out and get another glass and the brown gunk wouldn't be there. I went to do that tonight, got a glass of water, got a brown flake, poured it out, went to get another glass, and this one was FULL of the brown gunk. It was disgusting. What is happening? Is there something in the filter? Or in the line of water? Help.
My response to Heather is:
You might have two to three faults to look at. First, the water filter attached to the cold water of the refrigerator might have to be changed. Most water filters that are attached to the refrigerators have a six month lifespan. Second, If you fill the glass with ice first and then water, you might have to check the ice maker mold. Inspect the ice cubes for brown pieces. The ice maker sometimes peels off brown flakes from the ice maker mold. This is caused by the minerals in the water that react with the finish on the ice maker mold. Take a mirror and inspect the ice maker mold. If its cruddy and missing pieces replace the ice maker. Third possibility, If your refrigerator model has a water tank stored behind the lower drawers in the fresh food compartment, it might have to be cleaned out or replaced.
Heather, I hope these tips are helpful. Good luck, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.
Heather writes back:
Thanks. The timer on the fridge didn't say it was time to replace the filter, but we live at the beach and I think we have hard water that's softened, or something. We can never get rid of the rings around the toilets. We have just put in a new filter and are purging it now to see if it helps. This has only been happening with the water, not the ice. Next is to see if we have a tank. Is that something that will be visible? Or will I have to dig for it?
My response is:
The water tank is located behind the two bottom drawers in the fresh food compartment. Good Luck.
We have a Kenmore refrigerator with a filtered water/ice dispenser on the front. For the past few months, a very strange brown gunk has been coming out of the water dispenser in little flakes. Most of the time, we'd just pour the water out and get another glass and the brown gunk wouldn't be there. I went to do that tonight, got a glass of water, got a brown flake, poured it out, went to get another glass, and this one was FULL of the brown gunk. It was disgusting. What is happening? Is there something in the filter? Or in the line of water? Help.
My response to Heather is:
You might have two to three faults to look at. First, the water filter attached to the cold water of the refrigerator might have to be changed. Most water filters that are attached to the refrigerators have a six month lifespan. Second, If you fill the glass with ice first and then water, you might have to check the ice maker mold. Inspect the ice cubes for brown pieces. The ice maker sometimes peels off brown flakes from the ice maker mold. This is caused by the minerals in the water that react with the finish on the ice maker mold. Take a mirror and inspect the ice maker mold. If its cruddy and missing pieces replace the ice maker. Third possibility, If your refrigerator model has a water tank stored behind the lower drawers in the fresh food compartment, it might have to be cleaned out or replaced.
Heather, I hope these tips are helpful. Good luck, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.
Heather writes back:
Thanks. The timer on the fridge didn't say it was time to replace the filter, but we live at the beach and I think we have hard water that's softened, or something. We can never get rid of the rings around the toilets. We have just put in a new filter and are purging it now to see if it helps. This has only been happening with the water, not the ice. Next is to see if we have a tank. Is that something that will be visible? Or will I have to dig for it?
Thanks for your help.
My response is:
The water tank is located behind the two bottom drawers in the fresh food compartment. Good Luck.
Friday, October 23, 2009
Dishwasher Question - Dirty Dishes at the end of the cycle
Kyle writes:
I found your blog in Real Simple and am hoping you can help me with a really exasperating issue.
I have a three year old Jennair JDB1100AWS dishwasher. For the past two years the dishwasher has been cleaning the dishes and then redepositing grit and what looks like sandy food particles back on the dishes. I have had Service Plus (our local utility appliance repair plan) technicians out here at least six times. I have had the motor replaced, changed dishwasher soap brands, made sure the water is hot and the garbage disposal is flushed before starting the cycle. I have used Glisten to clean it out regularly and this still persists. I have tried everything and still the dishes come out dirtier when they went in. I used JetDry, and still they come out with this grit on them.
We did get a new sink installed two years ago. We were told maybe the hose needed to be lopped up, so that debris didn't come back in the system, and we did that.
Any suggestions? Ideas? Things to ask Service Plus to try?
My response to Kyle is:
Thank you for reading my blog. Sounds like you tried the most common types of fixes but,I hope I can help you with the cleaning issue on your dishwasher.
On occasion, there might be some food particles left on the dishes at the end of the cycle.
Possible cause: Water temperature might be too low. Remember, the water temperature
should be 140 to 150 degrees Fahrenheit as it enters the dishwasher tub.
Solution: Check the water temperature at the closest faucet. Let the water from the hot water
tap run before starting the dishwasher in order to clear the water line of any cold water.
Possible cause: Not enough detergent for the degree of water hardness or for the amount of
dirty dishes to be cleaned.
Water hardness is measured in grains:
• 0 to 3 grains: soft water
• 4 to 9 grains: medium-hard water
• 10 to 15 grains: hard water
• Over 15 grains: very hard water.
If you do not know the hardness of the water supply, contact the local water department.
Solution: Use 1 teaspoon of detergent for each grain of hardness, with 3 teaspoons of
detergent, at a minimum, in soft water. The dishwasher will require extra detergent for
greasy pans.
Possible cause: The detergent was placed in the wrong side of the dispenser cup.
Solution: Instruct the user on how to fill the dispenser, and have the user reread the use
and care manual so that the detergent is placed in the correct dispenser for the cycle that
is selected.
Is the detergent dispenser functioning properly? Does the soap remain in the dispenser?
Possible causes: Improper loading of the dishes into the dishwasher.
1. Blocking the spray nozzle. If a large bowl or pot is placed over the center of the lower
rack, this will block the spray nozzle washing action when the lower rack is pushed in.
2. Larger items that shield smaller items from the washing action.
3. Observe to see if there is a nesting of the bowls or silverware so that the water
cannot reach all surfaces.
4. The spray arms are blocked from turning. For example, tall items or an item that fell
through the racks.
5. If an item blocks the detergent dispenser from opening, this will not allow the
detergent to mix with the water.
Solution: Instruct the user to reread the use and care manual for the proper instructions on
how to load the dishes for proper cleaning.
Possible cause: Improper filling of water in the tub. Water pressure must be between 15
and 120 pounds per square inch. After the fill has stopped, check the water level in the
tub. On most models, it should be even with the heating element in the bottom of the
dishwasher.
Solution: If the water pressure is low, be sure that no other faucets are in use while the
dishwasher is operating.
Possible cause: Not enough hot water.
Solution: Instruct the user to use the dishwasher when the hot water is not being used for
laundry, baths, or showers.
Possible cause: If the dishwasher detergent is old and caked, it will not dissolve
completely.
Solution: Instruct the user to always purchase fresh detergent and store it in a dry place. Try using the dishwasher soap recommended in the use and care manual.
The Jenn-Air JDB1100 series dishwasher has extra features over the middle to bottom of the line other dishwashers. Listed below are some additional tips that might help you.
One feature is a turbidity sensor. This sensor is located on the bottom and to the left of the pump motor assembly. The sensor measures the soil level in the water. A service technician will have the check the sensor.
Another feature is called an over pressure filter. The purpose of this filter is to filter sediment missed by the lower filter than circulating it back through the wash cycle. This filter is located inside the tub straight in the back of the dishwasher. Spread the locking tabs. Rotate the filter down and remove from the manifold. clean or replace it.
If your problem is in the upper rack, check the docking station. The purpose of the docking station is to seal the water flow to the upper rack wash arm.
If everything checks out, try using the heavy cycle with an extra rinse.
Kyle, I hope these tips are helpful. Good luck, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.
I found your blog in Real Simple and am hoping you can help me with a really exasperating issue.
I have a three year old Jennair JDB1100AWS dishwasher. For the past two years the dishwasher has been cleaning the dishes and then redepositing grit and what looks like sandy food particles back on the dishes. I have had Service Plus (our local utility appliance repair plan) technicians out here at least six times. I have had the motor replaced, changed dishwasher soap brands, made sure the water is hot and the garbage disposal is flushed before starting the cycle. I have used Glisten to clean it out regularly and this still persists. I have tried everything and still the dishes come out dirtier when they went in. I used JetDry, and still they come out with this grit on them.
We did get a new sink installed two years ago. We were told maybe the hose needed to be lopped up, so that debris didn't come back in the system, and we did that.
Any suggestions? Ideas? Things to ask Service Plus to try?
My response to Kyle is:
Thank you for reading my blog. Sounds like you tried the most common types of fixes but,I hope I can help you with the cleaning issue on your dishwasher.
On occasion, there might be some food particles left on the dishes at the end of the cycle.
Possible cause: Water temperature might be too low. Remember, the water temperature
should be 140 to 150 degrees Fahrenheit as it enters the dishwasher tub.
Solution: Check the water temperature at the closest faucet. Let the water from the hot water
tap run before starting the dishwasher in order to clear the water line of any cold water.
Possible cause: Not enough detergent for the degree of water hardness or for the amount of
dirty dishes to be cleaned.
Water hardness is measured in grains:
• 0 to 3 grains: soft water
• 4 to 9 grains: medium-hard water
• 10 to 15 grains: hard water
• Over 15 grains: very hard water.
If you do not know the hardness of the water supply, contact the local water department.
Solution: Use 1 teaspoon of detergent for each grain of hardness, with 3 teaspoons of
detergent, at a minimum, in soft water. The dishwasher will require extra detergent for
greasy pans.
Possible cause: The detergent was placed in the wrong side of the dispenser cup.
Solution: Instruct the user on how to fill the dispenser, and have the user reread the use
and care manual so that the detergent is placed in the correct dispenser for the cycle that
is selected.
Is the detergent dispenser functioning properly? Does the soap remain in the dispenser?
Possible causes: Improper loading of the dishes into the dishwasher.
1. Blocking the spray nozzle. If a large bowl or pot is placed over the center of the lower
rack, this will block the spray nozzle washing action when the lower rack is pushed in.
2. Larger items that shield smaller items from the washing action.
3. Observe to see if there is a nesting of the bowls or silverware so that the water
cannot reach all surfaces.
4. The spray arms are blocked from turning. For example, tall items or an item that fell
through the racks.
5. If an item blocks the detergent dispenser from opening, this will not allow the
detergent to mix with the water.
Solution: Instruct the user to reread the use and care manual for the proper instructions on
how to load the dishes for proper cleaning.
Possible cause: Improper filling of water in the tub. Water pressure must be between 15
and 120 pounds per square inch. After the fill has stopped, check the water level in the
tub. On most models, it should be even with the heating element in the bottom of the
dishwasher.
Solution: If the water pressure is low, be sure that no other faucets are in use while the
dishwasher is operating.
Possible cause: Not enough hot water.
Solution: Instruct the user to use the dishwasher when the hot water is not being used for
laundry, baths, or showers.
Possible cause: If the dishwasher detergent is old and caked, it will not dissolve
completely.
Solution: Instruct the user to always purchase fresh detergent and store it in a dry place. Try using the dishwasher soap recommended in the use and care manual.
The Jenn-Air JDB1100 series dishwasher has extra features over the middle to bottom of the line other dishwashers. Listed below are some additional tips that might help you.
One feature is a turbidity sensor. This sensor is located on the bottom and to the left of the pump motor assembly. The sensor measures the soil level in the water. A service technician will have the check the sensor.
Another feature is called an over pressure filter. The purpose of this filter is to filter sediment missed by the lower filter than circulating it back through the wash cycle. This filter is located inside the tub straight in the back of the dishwasher. Spread the locking tabs. Rotate the filter down and remove from the manifold. clean or replace it.
If your problem is in the upper rack, check the docking station. The purpose of the docking station is to seal the water flow to the upper rack wash arm.
If everything checks out, try using the heavy cycle with an extra rinse.
Kyle, I hope these tips are helpful. Good luck, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.
Sunday, September 20, 2009
Book Review: Troubleshooting & Repairing Major Appliances 2nd ed.
Lisa's book review on Amazon:
I have a 13 month old dishwasher that cost me $650. It started making a loud noise while in use. I called the company's repair center and they gave me a rough estimate of about $400-500 to repair. According to Consumer Reports, I should have trashed the washer and bought a new one! I had to search high and low to find any books on appliance repair. Evidently, this knowledge is a state secret! I guess our disposable society doesn't want to fix anything. I did a lot of searching on the web and did find some general info on dishwasher repair, but they didn't offer any concrete details. This book saved the day. I read the repair chapter on dishwashers, grab my tools and removed the dishwasher, diagnosed the problem (bad motor--after ruling out other issues), went to the company's web site, located the motor and ordered it for $225. The motor arrived, I removed the old motor and popped the new one in, reconnected the electricity and water supplies, restored the power, ran a cycle and eureka, IT WORKED! The cost of the book, some of my time and I was able to saved my self hundreds of dollars and not be a prisoner of some repair person. The book offers chapters on using the tools, multimeter, etc. you will need to diagnose the problem. They are clearly written and not overburdened with "technobabble". The chapters on each appliance help you troubleshoot and rule out other possibilities. To be fair, I do have a strong tool background, so I have the equipment needed. If you don't have a multimeter, etc., you would be better off calling a repair tech, but if you do have to tools for the job, grab this book and fix the problem yourself. The sense of satisfaction and competence you feel by doing something for yourself and saving your appliance from the landfill make the effort worthwhile!
Thank you Lisa for your honest opinion on the book -" Troubleshooting & Repairing Major Appliances 2nd ed.".
You can purchase a copy of my book from www.Amazon.com
Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.
I have a 13 month old dishwasher that cost me $650. It started making a loud noise while in use. I called the company's repair center and they gave me a rough estimate of about $400-500 to repair. According to Consumer Reports, I should have trashed the washer and bought a new one! I had to search high and low to find any books on appliance repair. Evidently, this knowledge is a state secret! I guess our disposable society doesn't want to fix anything. I did a lot of searching on the web and did find some general info on dishwasher repair, but they didn't offer any concrete details. This book saved the day. I read the repair chapter on dishwashers, grab my tools and removed the dishwasher, diagnosed the problem (bad motor--after ruling out other issues), went to the company's web site, located the motor and ordered it for $225. The motor arrived, I removed the old motor and popped the new one in, reconnected the electricity and water supplies, restored the power, ran a cycle and eureka, IT WORKED! The cost of the book, some of my time and I was able to saved my self hundreds of dollars and not be a prisoner of some repair person. The book offers chapters on using the tools, multimeter, etc. you will need to diagnose the problem. They are clearly written and not overburdened with "technobabble". The chapters on each appliance help you troubleshoot and rule out other possibilities. To be fair, I do have a strong tool background, so I have the equipment needed. If you don't have a multimeter, etc., you would be better off calling a repair tech, but if you do have to tools for the job, grab this book and fix the problem yourself. The sense of satisfaction and competence you feel by doing something for yourself and saving your appliance from the landfill make the effort worthwhile!
Thank you Lisa for your honest opinion on the book -" Troubleshooting & Repairing Major Appliances 2nd ed.".
You can purchase a copy of my book from www.Amazon.com
Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.
Tuesday, September 15, 2009
Welcome Real Simple Readers!
The latest copies of Real Simple magazine have hit the shelves.
Check out our advice on when to fix appliances and when to replace them. We'll update with a link once the article becomes available online, but in the meantime, pick up your copy of the October issue today.
As always, if you have questions about your appliance repair, please e-mail me at eric at erickleinert dot com.
Want to know about multiple appliances? Buy the book for information on how to repair any major appliance.
Check out our advice on when to fix appliances and when to replace them. We'll update with a link once the article becomes available online, but in the meantime, pick up your copy of the October issue today.
As always, if you have questions about your appliance repair, please e-mail me at eric at erickleinert dot com.
Want to know about multiple appliances? Buy the book for information on how to repair any major appliance.
Monday, September 14, 2009
Repairing Microwave Ovens
A lot of people have written to me about repairing their own microwave oven. But, there are some safety precautions that must be observed first.
First let me tell you a short true story about my friend that tried to repair a microwave oven. He did not follow any of the listed safety precautions or technical training and was electrocuted. Thanks to rapid medical treatment and a lots prayers he was still alive. After a month in the hospital and a pacemaker installed he returned home never able to work again. When I spoke to him and asked him what had happened, he responded by saying that he new everything but forgot to follow the safety precautions. That was 35 years ago and I never forgot what happened to my friend. Do not let this happen to you. I strongly recommend that microwave oven repairs should be left up to a certified technician to repair.
WARNING: Any person who cannot use basic tools or follow written instructions should not attempt to install, maintain, or repair any microwave oven. Any improper installation, preventive maintenance, or repairs could create a risk of death, personal injury, death to others, or property damage. If you do not fully understand the installation, preventative maintenance, or repair procedures on this blog, or if you doubt your ability to complete the task on the microwave oven, do not attempt to make the repairs. Call a certified company or the manufacturer instead.
WARNING: First, before attempting any repairs, unplug the microwave. Then when you remove the outer cover or gain access to the electrical components, you must discharge the high-voltage capacitor or inverter. Do not attempt any repairs if you do not discharge the capacitor or inverter first. The high voltage circuit can have up to 5,000 volts stored in the microwave oven circuitry when the electricity is turned off.
WARNING:If you do not know how to properly and safely discharge the high-voltage capacitor or inverter, do not attempt removing or gaining access to the electrical components.
I have listed additional safety precautions below for you to follow if you attempt to make any repairs.
* Do not operate the microwave oven with the door open.
* Do not operate the microwave oven if the glass in the door is broken.
* Do not allow children under the age of 10 to operate a microwave oven.
* Do not jump out or by pass any components to operate the microwave oven.
* Do not operate the microwave oven if the door hinges and door assembly are loose.
* Always perform a microwave leakage test before and when repairs are made.
* Before you begin to service any high-voltage components within the microwave oven, you must discharge the high-voltage capacitors and inverter first.
* Never touch any wires or components with your hands or tools when the microwave oven is operating.
* Never run the microwave oven with the oven cavity empty. The microwave energy needs to be absorbed into food or a liquid, otherwise, the energy will bounce around, making its way to the high-voltage system and causing damage.
Before continuing, take a moment to refresh your memory of the safety procedures in the use and care guide that comes with your microwave oven.
Microwave oven repairs should be left up to the certified technician or the manufacturer to repair.
Preventive maintenance of the microwave oven is left up to the consumer to perform according to the use and care guide from the manufacturer. Please follow the instructions.
First let me tell you a short true story about my friend that tried to repair a microwave oven. He did not follow any of the listed safety precautions or technical training and was electrocuted. Thanks to rapid medical treatment and a lots prayers he was still alive. After a month in the hospital and a pacemaker installed he returned home never able to work again. When I spoke to him and asked him what had happened, he responded by saying that he new everything but forgot to follow the safety precautions. That was 35 years ago and I never forgot what happened to my friend. Do not let this happen to you. I strongly recommend that microwave oven repairs should be left up to a certified technician to repair.
WARNING: Any person who cannot use basic tools or follow written instructions should not attempt to install, maintain, or repair any microwave oven. Any improper installation, preventive maintenance, or repairs could create a risk of death, personal injury, death to others, or property damage. If you do not fully understand the installation, preventative maintenance, or repair procedures on this blog, or if you doubt your ability to complete the task on the microwave oven, do not attempt to make the repairs. Call a certified company or the manufacturer instead.
WARNING: First, before attempting any repairs, unplug the microwave. Then when you remove the outer cover or gain access to the electrical components, you must discharge the high-voltage capacitor or inverter. Do not attempt any repairs if you do not discharge the capacitor or inverter first. The high voltage circuit can have up to 5,000 volts stored in the microwave oven circuitry when the electricity is turned off.
WARNING:If you do not know how to properly and safely discharge the high-voltage capacitor or inverter, do not attempt removing or gaining access to the electrical components.
I have listed additional safety precautions below for you to follow if you attempt to make any repairs.
* Do not operate the microwave oven with the door open.
* Do not operate the microwave oven if the glass in the door is broken.
* Do not allow children under the age of 10 to operate a microwave oven.
* Do not jump out or by pass any components to operate the microwave oven.
* Do not operate the microwave oven if the door hinges and door assembly are loose.
* Always perform a microwave leakage test before and when repairs are made.
* Before you begin to service any high-voltage components within the microwave oven, you must discharge the high-voltage capacitors and inverter first.
* Never touch any wires or components with your hands or tools when the microwave oven is operating.
* Never run the microwave oven with the oven cavity empty. The microwave energy needs to be absorbed into food or a liquid, otherwise, the energy will bounce around, making its way to the high-voltage system and causing damage.
Before continuing, take a moment to refresh your memory of the safety procedures in the use and care guide that comes with your microwave oven.
Microwave oven repairs should be left up to the certified technician or the manufacturer to repair.
Preventive maintenance of the microwave oven is left up to the consumer to perform according to the use and care guide from the manufacturer. Please follow the instructions.
Saturday, September 12, 2009
Refrigerator/Freezer question?
Kellie writes:I found your blog while reading a column about home appliance repair in Real Simple magazine, and I have a question for you. I acquired a 1940's Hotpoint refrigerator in nearly mint condition from a woman who damaged it while defrosting it with a knife. The hole is very tiny, and a refrigerator repairman told me that it could be easily repaired with some epoxy, but that he couldn't get a replacement dryer (perhaps I'm using car terminology) for it, and since we had to lay the fridge on its side to get it home, it was likely junk.
I'm an automotive technician and therefore think like an automotive technician, so my question is: can I do a motor swap? Can I install the guts from a modern refrigerator into this one? Or is there a better way to get it working again? I'm not afraid of projects or fabricating, and I have a pretty good understanding of automotive air conditioning systems which aren't terribly different. This refrigerator is absolutely beautiful, and it would be a shame to scrap it over a tiny little hole. I know that there are people who restore and update vintage refrigerators, but they charge thousands of dollars and I'd love the satisfaction of doing it myself. If it's doable, what exactly would I have to install, and where do you suggest I purchase parts?
I have included links to photos of the fridge and the puncture.
Thanks so much for your help,
My response to Kellie is:
Nice antique frig. Since you are an auto technician, I assume you know how to repair a leak in a sealed refrigeration system. Since the Hotpoint refrigerator is from the 1940's, first look for the name plate on the box. Determine what type of refrigerant was used (R-12 or some other type). The holes look like you can patch it with a epoxy repair kit if the whole is only on one side. Similar to the automobile evaporator coil. If you know how to work on a sealed refrigeration system then the repair would be simple for you. A refrigerant filter dryer is available. Just remember that the old type of refrigerant is no longer available due to the EPA requirements for phased out refrigerants.
As far as replacing the entire sealed system with a more modern type, the challenge will be to try a find an evaporator coil that will fit in the same area as the old evaporator coil along with a matching compressor and condenser coil.
Another possibility might be is to contact an aluminum welder and see if they can weld the holes. I once had to do this type of repair on a 1950's three door refrigerator. Then you can complete the remainder of the sealed refrigeration system repair yourself.
Good luck. If there is anything else I can help you with, please write back.
My response to Kellie is:
Nice antique frig. Since you are an auto technician, I assume you know how to repair a leak in a sealed refrigeration system. Since the Hotpoint refrigerator is from the 1940's, first look for the name plate on the box. Determine what type of refrigerant was used (R-12 or some other type). The holes look like you can patch it with a epoxy repair kit if the whole is only on one side. Similar to the automobile evaporator coil. If you know how to work on a sealed refrigeration system then the repair would be simple for you. A refrigerant filter dryer is available. Just remember that the old type of refrigerant is no longer available due to the EPA requirements for phased out refrigerants.
As far as replacing the entire sealed system with a more modern type, the challenge will be to try a find an evaporator coil that will fit in the same area as the old evaporator coil along with a matching compressor and condenser coil.
Another possibility might be is to contact an aluminum welder and see if they can weld the holes. I once had to do this type of repair on a 1950's three door refrigerator. Then you can complete the remainder of the sealed refrigeration system repair yourself.
Good luck. If there is anything else I can help you with, please write back.
I wanted to also add to this response by telling my viewers, to repair a refrigerant leak in the refrigeration sealed system requires an EPA certified repair technician to make the repairs. Please do not try this type of repair if you are not EPA certified. It can be dangerous and it is against the law. Look up the following web page. This web page will explain the 608 rules and regulations for refrigerants.
http://www.epa.gov/Ozone/title6/608/608fact.html#noventing
Kellie, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.
Dryer question - marks on clothing
Ann writes:
Our dryer has started to leave brown marks, almost looks like a burn, on our clothes. The dryer is 4-5 years old. Is there anything we can do to fix this?
My response back to Ann is:
Take a look inside the dryer and look at the drum itself. If the paint finish came off the drum it's possible the marks you see on the clothes looks like rust. Also, take a look inside the dryer where the drum meets the front and rear bulkhead (front panel and rear panel). It is possible that the felt gasket has worn out and the clothes are getting caught between the bulkhead and the drum. I recommend also not to leave the clothes in the dryer when the machine stops if the drum or bulkhead is rusted. If the gasket is worn out, it can be repaired. If the drum and blukhead is scratched and rusted, you will have to purchase a new dryer soon.
Ann, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.
Our dryer has started to leave brown marks, almost looks like a burn, on our clothes. The dryer is 4-5 years old. Is there anything we can do to fix this?
My response back to Ann is:
Take a look inside the dryer and look at the drum itself. If the paint finish came off the drum it's possible the marks you see on the clothes looks like rust. Also, take a look inside the dryer where the drum meets the front and rear bulkhead (front panel and rear panel). It is possible that the felt gasket has worn out and the clothes are getting caught between the bulkhead and the drum. I recommend also not to leave the clothes in the dryer when the machine stops if the drum or bulkhead is rusted. If the gasket is worn out, it can be repaired. If the drum and blukhead is scratched and rusted, you will have to purchase a new dryer soon.
Ann, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.
Refrigerator/Freezer question?
On September 7, Elizabeth writes:
I have Kenmore refrigerator (bought in 2006) with dual door refrigerator on top and freezer drawer on bottom. Every 2 months or so, the back of the freezer (where the vent is?) ices over causing the entire unit (refrigerator and freezer) to stop cooling. This problem began probably 1 year ago, and we have solved the problem in the past by leaving the freezer drawer open overnight to defrost it. This seems to work, but it is annoying and results in me having to discard a lot of perishable food from the refrigerator each time it happens. Is there a longer-term solution? What's causing this bi-monthly freeze up?
We have thought that it resulted from not getting the doors of the unit shut all the way, but I have been really careful about that in the past few months and the inside of my refrigerator is room-temperature today. Arg.
I appreciate any advice you have.
My response back to Elizabeth is:
What you are describing sounds like the refrigerator is not going into a defrost cycle. Every so often the refrigerator must go into a defrost cycle to defrost the ice off of the evaporator coil (the rear of the freezer section). I recommend that you call Sears to take a look at your refrigerator.
Elizabeth, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.
I have Kenmore refrigerator (bought in 2006) with dual door refrigerator on top and freezer drawer on bottom. Every 2 months or so, the back of the freezer (where the vent is?) ices over causing the entire unit (refrigerator and freezer) to stop cooling. This problem began probably 1 year ago, and we have solved the problem in the past by leaving the freezer drawer open overnight to defrost it. This seems to work, but it is annoying and results in me having to discard a lot of perishable food from the refrigerator each time it happens. Is there a longer-term solution? What's causing this bi-monthly freeze up?
We have thought that it resulted from not getting the doors of the unit shut all the way, but I have been really careful about that in the past few months and the inside of my refrigerator is room-temperature today. Arg.
I appreciate any advice you have.
My response back to Elizabeth is:
What you are describing sounds like the refrigerator is not going into a defrost cycle. Every so often the refrigerator must go into a defrost cycle to defrost the ice off of the evaporator coil (the rear of the freezer section). I recommend that you call Sears to take a look at your refrigerator.
Elizabeth, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.
Saturday, July 18, 2009
I'm out of work what do I do now?
I have received a email from a concerned parent that I would like to share with everyone.
Eric
Eric
Have a son, 30, just been laid off. I think he would be totally happy fixing appliances as he is super-clever, can fix/repair about anything, knows tools, electricity, plumbing, but no electronics. Great with customers too.
I want him to be happy and make a decent living. What would you do to train yourself and become a bright prospect for a good comapny (A&E, GE, Sears, etc). He says he has called some of the local servicers but they all want experience and don't have rookie training.
Any suggestions you share will be greatly appreciated.
Respectfully,
Dan
I responded back saying:
Dan,
If your son has a interest in becoming an appliance technician, have your son check out a copy of my book from the library. Ask him to read it. If he still shows an interest then locate a technical school in your area that teaches major appliance technology. Visit the school and check out the campus and the courses. Remind your son that he will have to do a lot of studying and hands on repairs while he is in school.
Here is some food for thought, maybe father and son can go into business together and repair major appliances together? There is more to the appliance field than just repairing appliances. There is sales, service, installations, service contracts, sub-contracting, parts, warranty repairs and working for A&E, Sears or GE.
Good luck
Eric
I know times are hard and some folks will be making a change in work fields. Major appliance repairs and installations is a great field to choose. Over the past decades I have never gone hungry and my family has never gone without.
Dan
I responded back saying:
Dan,
If your son has a interest in becoming an appliance technician, have your son check out a copy of my book from the library. Ask him to read it. If he still shows an interest then locate a technical school in your area that teaches major appliance technology. Visit the school and check out the campus and the courses. Remind your son that he will have to do a lot of studying and hands on repairs while he is in school.
Here is some food for thought, maybe father and son can go into business together and repair major appliances together? There is more to the appliance field than just repairing appliances. There is sales, service, installations, service contracts, sub-contracting, parts, warranty repairs and working for A&E, Sears or GE.
Good luck
Eric
I know times are hard and some folks will be making a change in work fields. Major appliance repairs and installations is a great field to choose. Over the past decades I have never gone hungry and my family has never gone without.
Thursday, July 2, 2009
Summertime cooling - Room Air Conditioners
Room air conditioners are self-contained units that can be installed in a window, through a wall, or moved around on wheels. The smaller air conditioners are designed to cool the immediate area of a room. However, manufacturers are designing room air conditioners from 4,000 BTU/hour to over 30,000 BTU/hour. These larger-sized units will cool a larger area or cool multiple rooms in a home or office at one time.
The standard features are manual or electronic controls, straight cool only, electric heat and cooling, or reverse-cycle air conditioning (heat pump). Air flow circulating from the air conditioners discharge grill might have fixed, directional, or motorized louvers.
Some models are available with wireless remote control handheld units. The remote control makes it easier to control the on/off, fan speed, and temperature of the air conditioner from across the room. Room air conditioners are available in 120 volts or 230 volts.
To properly install a room air conditioner, it is strongly recommended that you follow the manufacturer's recommendations or call a qualified contractor or an authorized air conditioner service company to install the air conditioner. I have seen over the years many improperly installed air conditioners fall out of the window or wall.
Factors that should be taken into account when purchasing an air conditioner include the following:
- Size
- Energy rating
- Location of air conditioner within the home or office
- Location of the electrical outlet and voltage needed to run the air conditioner
Please send me your how-to questions (eric@erickleinert.com) and I'll answer them in this forum, helping you decide if you can fix your appliances yourself or if you need to call a professional.
Sunday, May 24, 2009
Garbage Disposers
The garbage disposer provides a convenient and sanitary way to dispose of food waste. No sorting or separating of the food waste is necessary. It is designed to handle all types of food waste. If, however, the garbage disposer drains into a septic tank, organic wastes, such as egg shells, lobster, crab, and shrimp shells should be kept at a minimum. Items such as tin cans, glass, china, bottle caps, metal, etc., should never be placed in the garbage disposer because they might damage the appliance and plug the drain.
There are two types of operating methods available in garbage disposers: continuous feed
and batch feed.
Continuous Feed Disposers
A continuous feed disposer requires an on-off electrical switch that is remote from the
disposer. Before food is placed into the hopper, the user must turn on the cold water faucet
and turn on the electrical switch. Then the food waste is placed into the hopper. The food
waste will be ground up and expelled into the drain.
Batch Feed Disposers
In a batch feed disposer, the on-off operation of the disposer is controlled by the stopper.
The on-off switch is built into the hopper. The stopper is the component that completes the
circuit that allows the disposer motor to run. The hopper will hold the food waste until the
user is ready to dispose of it. The food waste will be ground up and expelled into the drain.
Garbage Disposer Maintenance
The garbage disposer is permanently lubricated; thus, it never has to be oiled. When the
disposer is used properly, it cleans itself. If there is an odor coming from the inside of the
disposer, you can deodorize it. To do this, take some orange or lemon rinds and grind them
up in the disposer. This will dispel unpleasant odors and leave the sink with a sweet smell.
Another way to deodorize the disposer is to take about a dozen or so ice cubes sprinkled
with a generous amount of household scouring power and grind them up in the disposer without running the water. Flush the disposer for one minute. This will allow any debris to
be expelled into the drain.
Installation of Garbage Disposer
Every newly purchased garbage disposer comes with installation instructions, a use and care manual, and a warranty.
The steps taken to install a new disposer are as follows:
1. Read the use and care manual.
2. Clean out the sink’s drain line.
3. Disconnect the electrical supply:
a. Continuous feed disposers need a wall switch and a receptacle.
b. Batch feed disposers need a receptacle or must be wired directly.
4. Be sure to observe all local codes and ordinances for electrical and plumbing connections when installing or repairing disposers.
5. Follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions.
6. After completing the installation, check for water leaks.
7. Turn on the electricity, and test the operation of the garbage disposer.
Drain Blockage
To avoid drain blockage when using the garbage disposer, allow the cold water to flow for a
sufficient time after grinding the food waste to be sure that all of the waste is flushed away.
The ground waste and water mixture flows at the rate of two seconds per foot in a horizontal
drain line. It is recommended that the user allow the water to flow for a minimum of 15 to 30
seconds after grinding the food waste.
The use of cold water in the garbage disposer will congeal and harden the grease,
making its disposal easier. Never use chemicals or solvent drain compounds, because they
can cause serious damage to the disposer.
The disposer should be used daily to flush the lines. If the dishwasher drain hose is
connected to the disposer, it, too, should be used daily to prevent the dishwasher drain hose
from becoming clogged.
There are two types of operating methods available in garbage disposers: continuous feed
and batch feed.
Continuous Feed Disposers
A continuous feed disposer requires an on-off electrical switch that is remote from the
disposer. Before food is placed into the hopper, the user must turn on the cold water faucet
and turn on the electrical switch. Then the food waste is placed into the hopper. The food
waste will be ground up and expelled into the drain.
Batch Feed Disposers
In a batch feed disposer, the on-off operation of the disposer is controlled by the stopper.
The on-off switch is built into the hopper. The stopper is the component that completes the
circuit that allows the disposer motor to run. The hopper will hold the food waste until the
user is ready to dispose of it. The food waste will be ground up and expelled into the drain.
Garbage Disposer Maintenance
The garbage disposer is permanently lubricated; thus, it never has to be oiled. When the
disposer is used properly, it cleans itself. If there is an odor coming from the inside of the
disposer, you can deodorize it. To do this, take some orange or lemon rinds and grind them
up in the disposer. This will dispel unpleasant odors and leave the sink with a sweet smell.
Another way to deodorize the disposer is to take about a dozen or so ice cubes sprinkled
with a generous amount of household scouring power and grind them up in the disposer without running the water. Flush the disposer for one minute. This will allow any debris to
be expelled into the drain.
Installation of Garbage Disposer
Every newly purchased garbage disposer comes with installation instructions, a use and care manual, and a warranty.
The steps taken to install a new disposer are as follows:
1. Read the use and care manual.
2. Clean out the sink’s drain line.
3. Disconnect the electrical supply:
a. Continuous feed disposers need a wall switch and a receptacle.
b. Batch feed disposers need a receptacle or must be wired directly.
4. Be sure to observe all local codes and ordinances for electrical and plumbing connections when installing or repairing disposers.
5. Follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions.
6. After completing the installation, check for water leaks.
7. Turn on the electricity, and test the operation of the garbage disposer.
Drain Blockage
To avoid drain blockage when using the garbage disposer, allow the cold water to flow for a
sufficient time after grinding the food waste to be sure that all of the waste is flushed away.
The ground waste and water mixture flows at the rate of two seconds per foot in a horizontal
drain line. It is recommended that the user allow the water to flow for a minimum of 15 to 30
seconds after grinding the food waste.
The use of cold water in the garbage disposer will congeal and harden the grease,
making its disposal easier. Never use chemicals or solvent drain compounds, because they
can cause serious damage to the disposer.
The disposer should be used daily to flush the lines. If the dishwasher drain hose is
connected to the disposer, it, too, should be used daily to prevent the dishwasher drain hose
from becoming clogged.
Saturday, February 14, 2009
Appliance Recalls
There are times when a product might have an electrical, gas, or mechanical issue that might
be hazardous to the consumer. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) was
created to protect the consumer from serious injuries, unreasonable risks, death, and property
damage.
The CPSC’s Web site (http://www.cpsc.gov) includes information on appliance, air
conditioner, and other product recalls. It also includes other information beneficial
for the consumer.
Other Web sites helpful to the consumer and technician include:
http://www.recalls.gov
http://www.pueblo.gsa.gov.
In addition, the list below provides a listing of Web sites for major appliance and air conditioner manufacturers. You can also look in the use and care manual that comes with the product for the manufacturer’s Web site. Remember, safety and education must be considered at all times when operating or repairing any major appliance or air conditioner.
MAJOR APPLIANCE AND ROOM AIR CONDITIONER MANUFACTURERS
www.aosmith.com
www.amana.com
www.americanwaterheater.com
www.boschappliance.com
www.bradfordwhite.com
www.broan.com
www.brockwaterheaters.com
www.carrier.com
www.convaircoller.com
www.dacor.com
www.danby.com
www.delonghi.com
www.dynastyrange.com
www.eemaxine.com
www.electrolux.com
www.equatoronline.com
www.fedders.com
www.friedrich.com
www.frigidaire.com
www.gaggenau.com
www.ge.com
www.goldstarappliances.com
www.haieramerica.com
www.hatachi.com
www.hotwater.com
www.insinkerator.com
www.jadeappliances.com
www.jennair.com
www.kitchenaid.com
www.kuppersbuschusa.com
www.lge.com
www.lifeluxurymarvel.com
www.maytag.com
www.miele.com
www.northlandnka.com
www.panasonic.com
www.rheem.com
www.roperappliances.com
www.samsung.com
www.sears.com
www.sharpusa.com
www.staber.com
www.subzero.com
www.sunfrost.com
www.thermador.com
www.thorappliances.com
www.u-line.com
www.vaughncorp.com
www.veronaappliances.com
www.vikingrange.com
www.weathercraft.com
www.whirlpool.com
www.wolfappliance.com
www.zephyronline.com
be hazardous to the consumer. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) was
created to protect the consumer from serious injuries, unreasonable risks, death, and property
damage.
The CPSC’s Web site (http://www.cpsc.gov) includes information on appliance, air
conditioner, and other product recalls. It also includes other information beneficial
for the consumer.
Other Web sites helpful to the consumer and technician include:
http://www.recalls.gov
http://www.pueblo.gsa.gov.
In addition, the list below provides a listing of Web sites for major appliance and air conditioner manufacturers. You can also look in the use and care manual that comes with the product for the manufacturer’s Web site. Remember, safety and education must be considered at all times when operating or repairing any major appliance or air conditioner.
MAJOR APPLIANCE AND ROOM AIR CONDITIONER MANUFACTURERS
www.aosmith.com
www.amana.com
www.americanwaterheater.com
www.boschappliance.com
www.bradfordwhite.com
www.broan.com
www.brockwaterheaters.com
www.carrier.com
www.convaircoller.com
www.dacor.com
www.danby.com
www.delonghi.com
www.dynastyrange.com
www.eemaxine.com
www.electrolux.com
www.equatoronline.com
www.fedders.com
www.friedrich.com
www.frigidaire.com
www.gaggenau.com
www.ge.com
www.goldstarappliances.com
www.haieramerica.com
www.hatachi.com
www.hotwater.com
www.insinkerator.com
www.jadeappliances.com
www.jennair.com
www.kitchenaid.com
www.kuppersbuschusa.com
www.lge.com
www.lifeluxurymarvel.com
www.maytag.com
www.miele.com
www.northlandnka.com
www.panasonic.com
www.rheem.com
www.roperappliances.com
www.samsung.com
www.sears.com
www.sharpusa.com
www.staber.com
www.subzero.com
www.sunfrost.com
www.thermador.com
www.thorappliances.com
www.u-line.com
www.vaughncorp.com
www.veronaappliances.com
www.vikingrange.com
www.weathercraft.com
www.whirlpool.com
www.wolfappliance.com
www.zephyronline.com
Monday, November 24, 2008
Question #6 Where to purchase my book
Dear Eric.
Greetings from Uganda and thanks so much for your unceasing support you do give to us through your materials,they are helpful.Its today that i have come across your materials, but i do believe they are helpful. I am a technician by profession, i would like to purchase your book entitled Troubleshooting and Repairing major Appliances 2 Edition, but i don't know where to access this book, and the easiest payment method that you can recieve the money and how to order for the book, please help me and clarify me on this, God bless and hear from you soon
Daniel From Uganda
Daniel,
I apologize for not getting back to you sooner.
You can purchase the book on the following website.
www.amazon.com
This company ships books world wide.
Please let me know if you have any problems purchasing my book.
Daniel,
I apologize for not getting back to you sooner.
You can purchase the book on the following website.
www.amazon.com
This company ships books world wide.
Please let me know if you have any problems purchasing my book.
Dear Eric,
Thanks so much for your response, i am grateful, and i will let you know if i happen to get problems in purchasing that book there,God bless you and thank you so much for all your endavours.
Daniel From Uganda
Daniel, You can also purchase my book from the publisher, McGraw-Hill.
If anyone has problems purchasing my book, please fill free to contact me.
Daniel, You can also purchase my book from the publisher, McGraw-Hill.
If anyone has problems purchasing my book, please fill free to contact me.
Sunday, September 21, 2008
Dishwashers - Washability Problems
Water Temperature
The temperature of the incoming water is critical to the operation of a dishwasher. Most
dishwashers have heaters, and some have delay periods that extend the time during which
water is heated to a specified point, but this does not fully compensate for low temperature
of the water supply. You can check the temperature of hot water at the sink nearest to the
dishwasher with a thermometer. Open the hot water faucet. Let the water run until it is as hot
as possible, and then insert the thermometer into the stream of water. On some models, if the
thermometer reading is below 140 degrees Fahrenheit, you will have to raise the water heater
thermostat setting. On other models, the dishwasher was designed to operate with water
temperatures as low as 120 degrees Fahrenheit. These models have longer detergent wash
periods that allow 120-degree Fahrenheit supply water to be heated up to a temperature that
gives good washability results. The dishwasher delay periods occur in only one, two, or three
of the water fills, and do little for the remaining rinses. Except during delay periods, the water
is not in the dishwasher long enough to be heated adequately.
The Detergent
The kind and amount of dishwasher detergent that is used is an important part of getting
the dishes clean. Different brands of dishwasher detergent contain different amounts of
phosphorous, which works to soften water and prevent water spots. If the water is hard,
you will have to instruct the customer to use a detergent with a higher phosphorous
content—above 12 percent. If the water is soft, the customer can use a low-phosphorous
dishwasher detergent. Some areas restrict the phosphate content to 8 percent or less. This
means that the customer will have to increase the amount of detergent used in those areas
where the water is hard. This is done by adding 1 teaspoon of dishwasher detergent manually in the main wash cycle for each grain of water hardness above 12 grains (water hardness is measured in grains):
• 0 to 3 grains for soft water
• 4 to 9 grains for medium-hard water
• 10 to 15 grains for hard water
• Over 15 grains for very hard water.
If the hardness of the water supply is unknown, contact the local water department.
Always instruct the user to use automatic dishwasher detergent only. The use of soap,
hand dishwashing detergent, or laundry detergent will produce excessive suds and will
cause flooding and damage to the dishwasher.
Loading the Dishwasher
When loading the dishes into the dishwasher, make certain that you load the top and bottom racks according to the use and care instructions provided by the manufacturer. Overloading the dishwasher will provide poor washability and an unhappy consumer.
Step-by-Step Troubleshooting by Symptom Diagnosis
Poor Washability on the Upper Rack
1. Is the upper spray arm turning?
a. Are the holes in the spray arm plugged?
b. Check to see if the spray arm is split.
c. Is there uneven loading of the dishes?
d. Check the filter assembly for blockage.
e. Check the lower impeller to see if it is defective or blocked with debris.
f. Are any objects protruding down that might prevent the upper spray arm from
rotating?
2. Is the water charge okay?
3. What is the temperature of the water entering the tub? Is the temperature at 140 degrees Fahrenheit?
4. Is the user using the proper amount of detergent?
5. Is the detergent dispenser functioning properly?
6. Are the dishes loaded properly? Ask the user to load the dishwasher so that you can observe whether he or she is loading the dishwasher properly.
Poor Washability in the Lower Rack
1. Is the lower spray arm turning?
a. Are the holes in the spray arm plugged?
b. Check to see if the spray arm is split.
c. Is there uneven loading of the dishes?
d. Is the spray arm binding on the housing?
e. Are any objects protruding down that might prevent the lower spray arm from
rotating?
2. Is the water charge okay?
3. What is the temperature of the water entering the tub? Is the temperature at 140 degrees Fahrenheit?
4. Is the consumer using the proper amount of detergent?
5. Is the detergent dispenser functioning properly?
6. Are the dishes loaded properly? Ask the user to load the dishwasher so that you can observe whether he or she is loading the dishwasher properly.
Poor Drying
1. Is the water hot enough? Check the water supply temperature. On certain models,
check to see if the cycle extender is functioning properly.
2. Is the heater working?
a. Check the wiring.
b. Check the timer or the electronic control board.
c. Check for the correct voltage.
d. Check the heater itself.
e. Check the heater fan assembly.
3. Is a wetting agent being used?
4. Check the door baffle.
5. Check the vent system.
6. Suggest that the user open the door a little after the dry cycle has been completed.
Please send me your how-to questions (eric@erickleinert.com) and I'll answer them in this forum, helping you decide if you can fix your appliances yourself or if you need to call a professional.
Monday, August 18, 2008
Weather Safety for Appliances & Air Conditioning Equipment
When I awoke today and turned on my computer to Weather.com, I found out that my home state of Florida is under a hurricane watch. So I began to prepare for the worst. I put up my shutters, stocked up on food, water, and gas for my generator. I am now prepared to weather the storm. In a couple of days the sun will shine again.How to prepare your appliances and air conditioning equipment in the event of a hurricane.
Before bad weather arrives in your neighborhood, lower the temperature settings (colder) on the refrigerator, freezer, and air conditioning equipment. You can use your appliances and air conditioners normally until the electric starts to flicker or go out completely. When this occurs, turn off the refrigerator, freezer, and air conditioner controls. Also, make sure that the controls on the other appliances are turned to the off position. This will prevent the equipment from trying to restart. If the electrical voltage drops below 10% of the amount needed to run the equipment, it might cause damage to your appliances and air conditioning equipment.
Refrigerators and Freezers
Fill empty plastic soda bottles to 3/4 full of water and freeze them. This will help keep your food cold when the electricity goes out. Also, let your ice maker run and fill plastic bags of ice cubes to keep food cold. You might want to consider installing a surge protector or time delay to protect the compressor from short cycling. These parts are available at your local parts supply house. When the electricity goes off, turn the ice maker to the off position, try not to go into the refrigerator/freezer to often, with the doors closed, the temperature will remain constant.
Air Conditioning Equipment
You might want to consider installing a time delay to protect the compressor from restarting before the sealed system has a chance to equalize. This part is available at your local parts supply house. On room air conditioners, check around the outside of the case and the bottom of the unit to make sure that all openings are sealed, and the air conditioner unit is installed properly according to the manufacturer's specifications. Also, close the fresh air vent to prevent driving rains from entering the inside of the air conditioner and the home.
Washer and Dryers
Before a storm arrives, clean your clothes. I remember from the last storm, we began to run out of clean clothing. The electricity was off for three weeks. You do not have to turn off the water supply. Make sure that you have clean and dry clothing for up to three weeks.
Water Heaters
On electric water heaters, make sure that the clock timer is set to the on position. The clock timer is an add on device used to allow the water heater to cycle on at certain times that the consumer presets. When the electricity goes out at least you have one more hot shower. No need to turn off the water supply to the tank. On gas water heaters, run them normally.
If you do not have water pressure to the home, shut off the inlet valve to the water heater tank and turn off the electric or gas supply. This action allows you to have an extra supply of water if needed after the storm passes. The water heater tank can be drained as needed for survival purpose. If you use the water from the tank for drinking purposes, boil it first.
Dishwashers
Make sure to run and clean the dishes before the storm makes landfall and electricity goes out. You do not have to turn off the water supply to the dishwasher. Also, make sure to have disposable plates, bowls, and flatware. If you run out of the disposables, then use your dishes and silverware.
Garbage Disposer
Run the disposer to remove the debris from the drain and pipes. This will prevent funny smells from coming up the drain when the electricity goes out. Make sure that the switch is in the off position when the electricity goes off.
Microwave Ovens & Ranges
Make sure that all controls are in the off position when the electricity goes out. You might want to consider preparing some cooked meals in case you lose power during the storm. After the storm passes by, it will be easier to reheat the food on the grill.
Operating Appliances and Room Air Conditioners on a Generator
There are times when we have to seek alternate sources of electricity to run appliances and room air conditioners. Many people are installing, have installed, or about to purchase an auxiliary power generator as an alternative. When purchased or purchasing a generator, you will have to take into account what appliances you intend to run off of it.
When you consider running lights, appliances, and room air conditioners on a generator, you must calculate how much wattage is needed for each product, including the start-up wattage. In addition, the voltage (120 or 240) and cycles (60) are critical for proper operation of appliances and air conditioners. If the voltage is less than 10 percent of the operating voltage, refrigerators, freezers, and room air conditioners will not operate properly, which might cause damage to the components in the product. Any variations in the cycles could speed up the clocks, or slow them down. It is also important when searching for a generator that it has the ability to regulate the voltage and has surge protection for use with appliances and room air conditioners. Check with the generator manufacturer for warranty, operation, installation, and sizing of generator before purchasing.
Never use a gas powered generator in the home during a hurricane. Wait until the storm has passed by, then place the generator outside the home, away from the building for safe operation. Read the use and care guide that comes with your generator before turning it on.
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