Hello,
I have a 3 year old Kenmore Ultra Wash dishwasher. I am noticing this week that the water inside is not getting hot. Typically when open the door to put something in that I have forgotten I have massive amounts of steam coming out. This week I have seen almost no steam. I have tested the water in my sink and it is 130 degrees F. I have also tested my washing machine and my bathroom sink and shower that water is the same.
Do washing machines have a thermomenter? Could it be possible that mine is broken? Is this something we can fix ourselves or do I have to call a repairman? My husband is faily handy-- he has fixed our dryer before by watching a you tube video and we have a friend who is a plumber who installed the dishwasher for us. I would love not to call for service if I do not have to.
I look forward to a response.
Lisa
My response to Lisa:
First check your setting on the dishwasher panel. Some dishwasher models have a energy saver button that will not allow the heater to come on during the cycle to save money. Also, the first wash water in the dishwasher could be cold water coming from the water pipes from the water heater. This is normal. Some model dishwashers have a thermostat mounted to the bottom of the tub to sense the water temperature within the tub. This thermostat will stall the wash cycle until the water temperature rises to 140 degrees.
I hope this information is helpful.
Lisa responded back:
We pushed the button that says "High Temp" that seems to have solved the issue -- right now. Thanks for your help!
Happy Holidays!
Lisa
Please send me your how-to questions (eric@erickleinert.com) and I'll answer them in this forum, helping you decide if you can fix your appliances yourself or if you need to call a professional.
Showing posts with label how to fix appliances. Show all posts
Showing posts with label how to fix appliances. Show all posts
Saturday, December 11, 2010
Friday, December 10, 2010
Dishes are not coming out clean
The dishes are not coming out clean. I have tried different brands of detergents
with no results. All the glasses have a white film rather than being clear and
the dishes have stains on them. Tonight I sat in front of the dishwasher and
checket it out after each cycle. It seems to me that it just sits there during
the washing cycle for the longest time and there were lots and lots of suds in
dishwasher. I am guessing about the cycle as the dishwasher panel does not not
have anything but "pots and pan", "normal" "dry" and "rinse and hold". Could the
soap be sticking the the dishes too long?
It is a kitchen aid about 15 years old. When problem started I changed the
tablets I was using to liquid, for a while it got better but now is even worse.
What form of detergent is best to buy?
I am not ready to buy a new one, especially when I hear the bad experiences
friends have had with fairly new dishwashers.
Any help would be appreciated. Don't want to go back to washing dishes by handl
Thanks
RSL
My response to RSL
Dishwashers are similar to automatic clothes washers. They apply three kinds of energy on
the things to be washed. These forces are:
• Mechanical energy: Water that is sprayed on to the dishes to remove the food
particles.
• Heat energy: Using hot water to liquefy the fats and greases on dirty dishes.
• Chemical energy: Detergent dissolve the fats and greases off the dishes.
Dishwashers perform four basic functions that are modified and put together in different
ways to create the various cycles. The four functions are:
• Fill
• Wash/rinse
• Drain
• Dry
As with clothes washers, the only difference between the wash and rinse cycles is the
presence of detergent in the wash water. The mechanical activities that make up a wash and
a rinse cycle are basically the same function.
Unlike clothes washers, most dishwashers fill and begin to wash (or rinse) at the same
time. The functions are put together in various ways to make up different cycles
The temperature of the incoming water is critical to the operation of a dishwasher. Most
dishwashers have heaters, and some have delay periods that extend the time during which
water is heated to a specified point, but this does not fully compensate for low temperature
of the water supply. You can check the temperature of hot water at the sink nearest to the
dishwasher with a thermometer. Open the hot water faucet. Let the water run until it is as hot
as possible, and then insert the thermometer into the stream of water. On some models, if the
thermometer reading is below 140 degrees Fahrenheit, you will have to raise the water heater
thermostat setting. On other models, the dishwasher was designed to operate with water
temperatures as low as 120 degrees Fahrenheit. These models have longer detergent wash
periods that allow 120-degree Fahrenheit supply water to be heated up to a temperature that
gives good washability results. The dishwasher delay periods occur in only one, two, or three
of the water fills, and do little for the remaining rinses. Except during delay periods, the water
is not in the dishwasher long enough to be heated adequately.
The kind and amount of dishwasher detergent that is used is an important part of getting
the dishes clean. Different brands of dishwasher detergent contain different amounts of
phosphorous, which works to soften water and prevent water spots. If the water is hard,
you will have to instruct the customer to use a detergent with a higher phosphorous
content—above 12 percent. If the water is soft, the customer can use a low-phosphorous
dishwasher detergent. Some areas restrict the phosphate content to 8 percent or less. This
means that the customer will have to increase the amount of detergent used in those areas
where the water is hard. This is done by adding 1 teaspoon of dishwasher detergent manually in the main wash cycle for each grain of water hardness above 12 grains (water
hardness is measured in grains):
• 0 to 3 grains for soft water
• 4 to 9 grains for medium-hard water
• 10 to 15 grains for hard water
• Over 15 grains for very hard water.
If the hardness of the water supply is unknown, contact the local water department.
Always instruct the user to use automatic dishwasher detergent only. The use of soap,
hand dishwashing detergent, or laundry detergent will produce excessive suds and will
cause flooding and damage to the dishwasher.
Poor Washability on the Upper Rack
1. Is the upper spray arm turning?
a. Are the holes in the spray arm plugged?
b. Check to see if the spray arm is split.
c. Is there uneven loading of the dishes?
d. Check the filter assembly for blockage.
e. Check the lower impeller to see if it is defective or blocked with debris.
f. Are any objects protruding down that might prevent the upper spray arm from
rotating?
2. Is the water charge okay?
3. What is the temperature of the water entering the tub? Is the temperature at
140 degrees Fahrenheit?
4. Is the user using the proper amount of detergent?
5. Is the detergent dispenser functioning properly?
6. Are the dishes loaded properly? Ask the user to load the dishwasher so that you
can observe whether he or she is loading the dishwasher properly.
Poor Washability in the Lower Rack
1. Is the lower spray arm turning?
a. Are the holes in the spray arm plugged?
b. Check to see if the spray arm is split.
c. Is there uneven loading of the dishes?
d. Is the spray arm binding on the housing?
e. Are any objects protruding down that might prevent the lower spray arm from
rotating?
2. Is the water charge okay?
3. What is the temperature of the water entering the tub? Is the temperature at
140 degrees Fahrenheit?
4. Is the consumer using the proper amount of detergent?
5. Is the detergent dispenser functioning properly?
6. Are the dishes loaded properly? Ask the user to load the dishwasher so that you
can observe whether he or she is loading the dishwasher properly.
Etching occurs when the glass is pitted or eroded. It appears as a permanent film on the
glass. The beginning stages of etching can be identified by an iridescent look—shades of
blue, purple, brown, or pink when the glass is held at an angle to the light. In the advanced
stages of etching, the glass surface appears frosted or cloudy.
Possible cause: Certain types of glass will etch in any dishwasher with the combination of
soft water, the alkalinity of dishwasher detergents, and heat.
Solutions: There is no way to remove the filmy appearance caused by etching; the damage
is permanent. There is no way to predict what glassware might be affected—it is not
related to the cost or quality of the glass.
RSL,let me know if that worked for you.
Please send me your how-to questions (eric@erickleinert.com) and I'll answer them in this forum, helping you decide if you can fix your appliances yourself or if you need to call a professional.
with no results. All the glasses have a white film rather than being clear and
the dishes have stains on them. Tonight I sat in front of the dishwasher and
checket it out after each cycle. It seems to me that it just sits there during
the washing cycle for the longest time and there were lots and lots of suds in
dishwasher. I am guessing about the cycle as the dishwasher panel does not not
have anything but "pots and pan", "normal" "dry" and "rinse and hold". Could the
soap be sticking the the dishes too long?
It is a kitchen aid about 15 years old. When problem started I changed the
tablets I was using to liquid, for a while it got better but now is even worse.
What form of detergent is best to buy?
I am not ready to buy a new one, especially when I hear the bad experiences
friends have had with fairly new dishwashers.
Any help would be appreciated. Don't want to go back to washing dishes by handl
Thanks
RSL
My response to RSL
Dishwashers are similar to automatic clothes washers. They apply three kinds of energy on
the things to be washed. These forces are:
• Mechanical energy: Water that is sprayed on to the dishes to remove the food
particles.
• Heat energy: Using hot water to liquefy the fats and greases on dirty dishes.
• Chemical energy: Detergent dissolve the fats and greases off the dishes.
Dishwashers perform four basic functions that are modified and put together in different
ways to create the various cycles. The four functions are:
• Fill
• Wash/rinse
• Drain
• Dry
As with clothes washers, the only difference between the wash and rinse cycles is the
presence of detergent in the wash water. The mechanical activities that make up a wash and
a rinse cycle are basically the same function.
Unlike clothes washers, most dishwashers fill and begin to wash (or rinse) at the same
time. The functions are put together in various ways to make up different cycles
The temperature of the incoming water is critical to the operation of a dishwasher. Most
dishwashers have heaters, and some have delay periods that extend the time during which
water is heated to a specified point, but this does not fully compensate for low temperature
of the water supply. You can check the temperature of hot water at the sink nearest to the
dishwasher with a thermometer. Open the hot water faucet. Let the water run until it is as hot
as possible, and then insert the thermometer into the stream of water. On some models, if the
thermometer reading is below 140 degrees Fahrenheit, you will have to raise the water heater
thermostat setting. On other models, the dishwasher was designed to operate with water
temperatures as low as 120 degrees Fahrenheit. These models have longer detergent wash
periods that allow 120-degree Fahrenheit supply water to be heated up to a temperature that
gives good washability results. The dishwasher delay periods occur in only one, two, or three
of the water fills, and do little for the remaining rinses. Except during delay periods, the water
is not in the dishwasher long enough to be heated adequately.
The kind and amount of dishwasher detergent that is used is an important part of getting
the dishes clean. Different brands of dishwasher detergent contain different amounts of
phosphorous, which works to soften water and prevent water spots. If the water is hard,
you will have to instruct the customer to use a detergent with a higher phosphorous
content—above 12 percent. If the water is soft, the customer can use a low-phosphorous
dishwasher detergent. Some areas restrict the phosphate content to 8 percent or less. This
means that the customer will have to increase the amount of detergent used in those areas
where the water is hard. This is done by adding 1 teaspoon of dishwasher detergent manually in the main wash cycle for each grain of water hardness above 12 grains (water
hardness is measured in grains):
• 0 to 3 grains for soft water
• 4 to 9 grains for medium-hard water
• 10 to 15 grains for hard water
• Over 15 grains for very hard water.
If the hardness of the water supply is unknown, contact the local water department.
Always instruct the user to use automatic dishwasher detergent only. The use of soap,
hand dishwashing detergent, or laundry detergent will produce excessive suds and will
cause flooding and damage to the dishwasher.
Poor Washability on the Upper Rack
1. Is the upper spray arm turning?
a. Are the holes in the spray arm plugged?
b. Check to see if the spray arm is split.
c. Is there uneven loading of the dishes?
d. Check the filter assembly for blockage.
e. Check the lower impeller to see if it is defective or blocked with debris.
f. Are any objects protruding down that might prevent the upper spray arm from
rotating?
2. Is the water charge okay?
3. What is the temperature of the water entering the tub? Is the temperature at
140 degrees Fahrenheit?
4. Is the user using the proper amount of detergent?
5. Is the detergent dispenser functioning properly?
6. Are the dishes loaded properly? Ask the user to load the dishwasher so that you
can observe whether he or she is loading the dishwasher properly.
Poor Washability in the Lower Rack
1. Is the lower spray arm turning?
a. Are the holes in the spray arm plugged?
b. Check to see if the spray arm is split.
c. Is there uneven loading of the dishes?
d. Is the spray arm binding on the housing?
e. Are any objects protruding down that might prevent the lower spray arm from
rotating?
2. Is the water charge okay?
3. What is the temperature of the water entering the tub? Is the temperature at
140 degrees Fahrenheit?
4. Is the consumer using the proper amount of detergent?
5. Is the detergent dispenser functioning properly?
6. Are the dishes loaded properly? Ask the user to load the dishwasher so that you
can observe whether he or she is loading the dishwasher properly.
Etching occurs when the glass is pitted or eroded. It appears as a permanent film on the
glass. The beginning stages of etching can be identified by an iridescent look—shades of
blue, purple, brown, or pink when the glass is held at an angle to the light. In the advanced
stages of etching, the glass surface appears frosted or cloudy.
Possible cause: Certain types of glass will etch in any dishwasher with the combination of
soft water, the alkalinity of dishwasher detergents, and heat.
Solutions: There is no way to remove the filmy appearance caused by etching; the damage
is permanent. There is no way to predict what glassware might be affected—it is not
related to the cost or quality of the glass.
RSL,let me know if that worked for you.
Please send me your how-to questions (eric@erickleinert.com) and I'll answer them in this forum, helping you decide if you can fix your appliances yourself or if you need to call a professional.
Friday, June 11, 2010
Refrigerator ice dispenser not working properly?
I received an email from Heather,
Hello. I'm hoping you can help me fix my problem. I have a Kenmore limited edition 26' black side by side refrigerator. Everything works perfects, except for the ice dispenser on the door. The ice maker inside the freezer works, but it won't produce it from the dispenser on the door. What could be the problem?? Is this an easy fix?? I'm not even sure where to start. PLEASE HELP!
My response back to Heather was:
Sometimes the fix is easy. When you want to get ice through the door the auger motor turns the auger in the ice bucket which allows the ice to travel to the door and through the dispenser door. If you hear the auger motor turning check for a ice cube blockage in the door. It is recommended that you clean out the ice bucket. Sometimes an ice buildup in the ice bucket can prevent ice from turning in the ice bucket. If you hear nothing when you press the pad on the door for ice, then I would recommend that you call for a service repairman to take a look at it.
Heather, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.
Hello. I'm hoping you can help me fix my problem. I have a Kenmore limited edition 26' black side by side refrigerator. Everything works perfects, except for the ice dispenser on the door. The ice maker inside the freezer works, but it won't produce it from the dispenser on the door. What could be the problem?? Is this an easy fix?? I'm not even sure where to start. PLEASE HELP!
My response back to Heather was:
Sometimes the fix is easy. When you want to get ice through the door the auger motor turns the auger in the ice bucket which allows the ice to travel to the door and through the dispenser door. If you hear the auger motor turning check for a ice cube blockage in the door. It is recommended that you clean out the ice bucket. Sometimes an ice buildup in the ice bucket can prevent ice from turning in the ice bucket. If you hear nothing when you press the pad on the door for ice, then I would recommend that you call for a service repairman to take a look at it.
Heather, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.
Saturday, March 6, 2010
Carbon Monoxide (C0) - How much is too much?
My daughter called me today to tell me that her CO (carbon monoxide) detector has been sounding off all day today and what should she do. When I heard this I immediately told her to open the windows and contact the gas company to check her gas appliances and gas furnace. I also asked her when did she last changed the batteries in her CO detector? She said the batteries were new. Luckily the gas company was open on a Saturday evening and they told her to contact the the fire department. When the fire department came out to her home they checked the home for CO (carbon Monoxide) and found that the CO levels were between 2-4 ppm (parts per million). They advised my daughter if the CO detector goes off again to call the fire department back again. Lets hope she does not have to. My daughter has a young baby and the baby will be more acceptable to CO poisoning at the lower levels than adults.
I told my daughter to go out and buy two new CO detectors with the capabilities of reading CO levels between 50-70 ppm. Also, have the gas company come to the home on Monday to check the gas appliances and gas furnace to make sure that they are operating within the manufacturers specifications.
Carbon monoxide (CO) is a toxic gas that can cause death if inhaled in copious amounts.
It is odorless, colorless, and has no taste. The human body cannot detect carbon monoxide
with its senses. When carbon monoxide is inhaled, it is absorbed into the bloodstream and
stays there longer, preventing oxygenated blood from performing its job in the body. Two
factors affect the amount of carbon monoxide absorbed into the bloodstream: the amount of carbon monoxide in a room and the length of exposure. Lower levels of CO inhalation can
cause flu-like symptoms, including headaches, dizziness, disorientation, fatigue, and
nausea. Other exposure effects can vary depending on the age and health of the individual.
Carbon monoxide in homes without gas appliances varies between 0.5 to 5 parts per
million (ppm). CO levels in homes with properly maintained gas appliances will vary from
5 to 15 parts per million. For those gas appliances that are not maintained properly, carbon
monoxide levels may be 30 ppm or even higher.
Testing for Carbon Monoxide
Consumer products for detecting carbon monoxide in a home have been on the market for
years. Carbon monoxide detectors should have an alarm that alerts consumers before they
are exposed to hazardous levels of carbon monoxide. In order to prevent false alarms, CO
detectors must be able to distinguish carbon monoxide gases from other types of gases, such
as butanes, heptane, alcohol, methane, and ethyl acetate. Two manufacturers that you can
visit on the Internet to view the different types of carbon monoxide detectors available
include www.kidde.com and www.firstalert.com.
Technicians who test for carbon monoxide use a special handheld meter to check the
levels of carbon monoxide in a room or home.
When to check for carbon monoxide in a home:
• When the consumer complains of headaches or nausea
• Houseplants are dying
• Unknown chronic odors from unknown sources
• Condensation on cool surfaces that might lead to flue gas products in the home
If you see any of these conditions contact you gas company. You may save your life and your family.
Gas Safety
The following are a few safety tips to help you in handling major gas appliances and gas furnaces in your home:
• Always follow the manufacturer’s use and care manual for the gas appliance.
• Always keep combustible products away from gas appliances.
• Keep your gas appliance clean from soot, grease, and food spillages.
• Teach your children not to play near or with gas appliances.
• Always have a fire extinguisher nearby just in case of mishaps that might lead to a fire.
• Have a smoke detector and a carbon monoxide detector installed in the home, and
check the batteries yearly.
• Never use a gas range to heat the home.
• Make sure that gas appliances have proper venting according to the manufacturers’
recommendations.
If you have oil fired furnaces they must be checked for proper CO levels too.
CARBON MONOXIDE LEVELS
12,000 PPM Death within 1-3 minutes
1,600 PPM Nausea within 20 minutes, death within 1 hour
800 PPM Nausea and convulsions, death within 2 hours
400 PPM Front headaches within 1-2 hours; life threatening within 3 hours
70 PPM If CO at this level for four hours, your CO detector should be sounding
50 PPM MAXIMUM average level for a continuous exposure in an eight hour workday per federal law
10-35 PPM Marginal levels - small children, elderly, and those suffering respiratory or heat problems from chronic exposure
9 PPM Measured around a busy street and intersections
1-9 PPM These concentrations may not be avoidable without life style changes
Indoor air quality (IAQ) is very important to us all. Please check this link for further information on Carbon Monoxide.
http://www.epa.gov/iaq/co.html
Safety reminder to all, have your gas appliances and gas furnaces inspected for proper operation. This also includes oil fired furnaces too.
I told my daughter to go out and buy two new CO detectors with the capabilities of reading CO levels between 50-70 ppm. Also, have the gas company come to the home on Monday to check the gas appliances and gas furnace to make sure that they are operating within the manufacturers specifications.
Carbon monoxide (CO) is a toxic gas that can cause death if inhaled in copious amounts.
It is odorless, colorless, and has no taste. The human body cannot detect carbon monoxide
with its senses. When carbon monoxide is inhaled, it is absorbed into the bloodstream and
stays there longer, preventing oxygenated blood from performing its job in the body. Two
factors affect the amount of carbon monoxide absorbed into the bloodstream: the amount of carbon monoxide in a room and the length of exposure. Lower levels of CO inhalation can
cause flu-like symptoms, including headaches, dizziness, disorientation, fatigue, and
nausea. Other exposure effects can vary depending on the age and health of the individual.
Carbon monoxide in homes without gas appliances varies between 0.5 to 5 parts per
million (ppm). CO levels in homes with properly maintained gas appliances will vary from
5 to 15 parts per million. For those gas appliances that are not maintained properly, carbon
monoxide levels may be 30 ppm or even higher.
Testing for Carbon Monoxide
Consumer products for detecting carbon monoxide in a home have been on the market for
years. Carbon monoxide detectors should have an alarm that alerts consumers before they
are exposed to hazardous levels of carbon monoxide. In order to prevent false alarms, CO
detectors must be able to distinguish carbon monoxide gases from other types of gases, such
as butanes, heptane, alcohol, methane, and ethyl acetate. Two manufacturers that you can
visit on the Internet to view the different types of carbon monoxide detectors available
include www.kidde.com and www.firstalert.com.
Technicians who test for carbon monoxide use a special handheld meter to check the
levels of carbon monoxide in a room or home.
When to check for carbon monoxide in a home:
• When the consumer complains of headaches or nausea
• Houseplants are dying
• Unknown chronic odors from unknown sources
• Condensation on cool surfaces that might lead to flue gas products in the home
If you see any of these conditions contact you gas company. You may save your life and your family.Gas Safety
The following are a few safety tips to help you in handling major gas appliances and gas furnaces in your home:
• Always follow the manufacturer’s use and care manual for the gas appliance.
• Always keep combustible products away from gas appliances.
• Keep your gas appliance clean from soot, grease, and food spillages.
• Teach your children not to play near or with gas appliances.
• Always have a fire extinguisher nearby just in case of mishaps that might lead to a fire.
• Have a smoke detector and a carbon monoxide detector installed in the home, and
check the batteries yearly.
• Never use a gas range to heat the home.
• Make sure that gas appliances have proper venting according to the manufacturers’
recommendations.
If you have oil fired furnaces they must be checked for proper CO levels too.
CARBON MONOXIDE LEVELS
12,000 PPM Death within 1-3 minutes
1,600 PPM Nausea within 20 minutes, death within 1 hour
800 PPM Nausea and convulsions, death within 2 hours
400 PPM Front headaches within 1-2 hours; life threatening within 3 hours
70 PPM If CO at this level for four hours, your CO detector should be sounding
50 PPM MAXIMUM average level for a continuous exposure in an eight hour workday per federal law
10-35 PPM Marginal levels - small children, elderly, and those suffering respiratory or heat problems from chronic exposure
9 PPM Measured around a busy street and intersections
1-9 PPM These concentrations may not be avoidable without life style changes
Indoor air quality (IAQ) is very important to us all. Please check this link for further information on Carbon Monoxide.
http://www.epa.gov/iaq/co.html
Safety reminder to all, have your gas appliances and gas furnaces inspected for proper operation. This also includes oil fired furnaces too.
Sunday, January 17, 2010
Refrigerator ice and water dispensor has brown stuff coming out of it.
Heather writes:
We have a Kenmore refrigerator with a filtered water/ice dispenser on the front. For the past few months, a very strange brown gunk has been coming out of the water dispenser in little flakes. Most of the time, we'd just pour the water out and get another glass and the brown gunk wouldn't be there. I went to do that tonight, got a glass of water, got a brown flake, poured it out, went to get another glass, and this one was FULL of the brown gunk. It was disgusting. What is happening? Is there something in the filter? Or in the line of water? Help.
My response to Heather is:
You might have two to three faults to look at. First, the water filter attached to the cold water of the refrigerator might have to be changed. Most water filters that are attached to the refrigerators have a six month lifespan. Second, If you fill the glass with ice first and then water, you might have to check the ice maker mold. Inspect the ice cubes for brown pieces. The ice maker sometimes peels off brown flakes from the ice maker mold. This is caused by the minerals in the water that react with the finish on the ice maker mold. Take a mirror and inspect the ice maker mold. If its cruddy and missing pieces replace the ice maker. Third possibility, If your refrigerator model has a water tank stored behind the lower drawers in the fresh food compartment, it might have to be cleaned out or replaced.
Heather, I hope these tips are helpful. Good luck, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.
Heather writes back:
Thanks. The timer on the fridge didn't say it was time to replace the filter, but we live at the beach and I think we have hard water that's softened, or something. We can never get rid of the rings around the toilets. We have just put in a new filter and are purging it now to see if it helps. This has only been happening with the water, not the ice. Next is to see if we have a tank. Is that something that will be visible? Or will I have to dig for it?
My response is:
The water tank is located behind the two bottom drawers in the fresh food compartment. Good Luck.
We have a Kenmore refrigerator with a filtered water/ice dispenser on the front. For the past few months, a very strange brown gunk has been coming out of the water dispenser in little flakes. Most of the time, we'd just pour the water out and get another glass and the brown gunk wouldn't be there. I went to do that tonight, got a glass of water, got a brown flake, poured it out, went to get another glass, and this one was FULL of the brown gunk. It was disgusting. What is happening? Is there something in the filter? Or in the line of water? Help.
My response to Heather is:
You might have two to three faults to look at. First, the water filter attached to the cold water of the refrigerator might have to be changed. Most water filters that are attached to the refrigerators have a six month lifespan. Second, If you fill the glass with ice first and then water, you might have to check the ice maker mold. Inspect the ice cubes for brown pieces. The ice maker sometimes peels off brown flakes from the ice maker mold. This is caused by the minerals in the water that react with the finish on the ice maker mold. Take a mirror and inspect the ice maker mold. If its cruddy and missing pieces replace the ice maker. Third possibility, If your refrigerator model has a water tank stored behind the lower drawers in the fresh food compartment, it might have to be cleaned out or replaced.
Heather, I hope these tips are helpful. Good luck, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.
Heather writes back:
Thanks. The timer on the fridge didn't say it was time to replace the filter, but we live at the beach and I think we have hard water that's softened, or something. We can never get rid of the rings around the toilets. We have just put in a new filter and are purging it now to see if it helps. This has only been happening with the water, not the ice. Next is to see if we have a tank. Is that something that will be visible? Or will I have to dig for it?
Thanks for your help.
My response is:
The water tank is located behind the two bottom drawers in the fresh food compartment. Good Luck.
Saturday, September 12, 2009
Refrigerator/Freezer question?
Kellie writes:I found your blog while reading a column about home appliance repair in Real Simple magazine, and I have a question for you. I acquired a 1940's Hotpoint refrigerator in nearly mint condition from a woman who damaged it while defrosting it with a knife. The hole is very tiny, and a refrigerator repairman told me that it could be easily repaired with some epoxy, but that he couldn't get a replacement dryer (perhaps I'm using car terminology) for it, and since we had to lay the fridge on its side to get it home, it was likely junk.
I'm an automotive technician and therefore think like an automotive technician, so my question is: can I do a motor swap? Can I install the guts from a modern refrigerator into this one? Or is there a better way to get it working again? I'm not afraid of projects or fabricating, and I have a pretty good understanding of automotive air conditioning systems which aren't terribly different. This refrigerator is absolutely beautiful, and it would be a shame to scrap it over a tiny little hole. I know that there are people who restore and update vintage refrigerators, but they charge thousands of dollars and I'd love the satisfaction of doing it myself. If it's doable, what exactly would I have to install, and where do you suggest I purchase parts?
I have included links to photos of the fridge and the puncture.
Thanks so much for your help,
My response to Kellie is:
Nice antique frig. Since you are an auto technician, I assume you know how to repair a leak in a sealed refrigeration system. Since the Hotpoint refrigerator is from the 1940's, first look for the name plate on the box. Determine what type of refrigerant was used (R-12 or some other type). The holes look like you can patch it with a epoxy repair kit if the whole is only on one side. Similar to the automobile evaporator coil. If you know how to work on a sealed refrigeration system then the repair would be simple for you. A refrigerant filter dryer is available. Just remember that the old type of refrigerant is no longer available due to the EPA requirements for phased out refrigerants.
As far as replacing the entire sealed system with a more modern type, the challenge will be to try a find an evaporator coil that will fit in the same area as the old evaporator coil along with a matching compressor and condenser coil.
Another possibility might be is to contact an aluminum welder and see if they can weld the holes. I once had to do this type of repair on a 1950's three door refrigerator. Then you can complete the remainder of the sealed refrigeration system repair yourself.
Good luck. If there is anything else I can help you with, please write back.
My response to Kellie is:
Nice antique frig. Since you are an auto technician, I assume you know how to repair a leak in a sealed refrigeration system. Since the Hotpoint refrigerator is from the 1940's, first look for the name plate on the box. Determine what type of refrigerant was used (R-12 or some other type). The holes look like you can patch it with a epoxy repair kit if the whole is only on one side. Similar to the automobile evaporator coil. If you know how to work on a sealed refrigeration system then the repair would be simple for you. A refrigerant filter dryer is available. Just remember that the old type of refrigerant is no longer available due to the EPA requirements for phased out refrigerants.
As far as replacing the entire sealed system with a more modern type, the challenge will be to try a find an evaporator coil that will fit in the same area as the old evaporator coil along with a matching compressor and condenser coil.
Another possibility might be is to contact an aluminum welder and see if they can weld the holes. I once had to do this type of repair on a 1950's three door refrigerator. Then you can complete the remainder of the sealed refrigeration system repair yourself.
Good luck. If there is anything else I can help you with, please write back.
I wanted to also add to this response by telling my viewers, to repair a refrigerant leak in the refrigeration sealed system requires an EPA certified repair technician to make the repairs. Please do not try this type of repair if you are not EPA certified. It can be dangerous and it is against the law. Look up the following web page. This web page will explain the 608 rules and regulations for refrigerants.
http://www.epa.gov/Ozone/title6/608/608fact.html#noventing
Kellie, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.
Dryer question - marks on clothing
Ann writes:
Our dryer has started to leave brown marks, almost looks like a burn, on our clothes. The dryer is 4-5 years old. Is there anything we can do to fix this?
My response back to Ann is:
Take a look inside the dryer and look at the drum itself. If the paint finish came off the drum it's possible the marks you see on the clothes looks like rust. Also, take a look inside the dryer where the drum meets the front and rear bulkhead (front panel and rear panel). It is possible that the felt gasket has worn out and the clothes are getting caught between the bulkhead and the drum. I recommend also not to leave the clothes in the dryer when the machine stops if the drum or bulkhead is rusted. If the gasket is worn out, it can be repaired. If the drum and blukhead is scratched and rusted, you will have to purchase a new dryer soon.
Ann, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.
Our dryer has started to leave brown marks, almost looks like a burn, on our clothes. The dryer is 4-5 years old. Is there anything we can do to fix this?
My response back to Ann is:
Take a look inside the dryer and look at the drum itself. If the paint finish came off the drum it's possible the marks you see on the clothes looks like rust. Also, take a look inside the dryer where the drum meets the front and rear bulkhead (front panel and rear panel). It is possible that the felt gasket has worn out and the clothes are getting caught between the bulkhead and the drum. I recommend also not to leave the clothes in the dryer when the machine stops if the drum or bulkhead is rusted. If the gasket is worn out, it can be repaired. If the drum and blukhead is scratched and rusted, you will have to purchase a new dryer soon.
Ann, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.
Refrigerator/Freezer question?
On September 7, Elizabeth writes:
I have Kenmore refrigerator (bought in 2006) with dual door refrigerator on top and freezer drawer on bottom. Every 2 months or so, the back of the freezer (where the vent is?) ices over causing the entire unit (refrigerator and freezer) to stop cooling. This problem began probably 1 year ago, and we have solved the problem in the past by leaving the freezer drawer open overnight to defrost it. This seems to work, but it is annoying and results in me having to discard a lot of perishable food from the refrigerator each time it happens. Is there a longer-term solution? What's causing this bi-monthly freeze up?
We have thought that it resulted from not getting the doors of the unit shut all the way, but I have been really careful about that in the past few months and the inside of my refrigerator is room-temperature today. Arg.
I appreciate any advice you have.
My response back to Elizabeth is:
What you are describing sounds like the refrigerator is not going into a defrost cycle. Every so often the refrigerator must go into a defrost cycle to defrost the ice off of the evaporator coil (the rear of the freezer section). I recommend that you call Sears to take a look at your refrigerator.
Elizabeth, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.
I have Kenmore refrigerator (bought in 2006) with dual door refrigerator on top and freezer drawer on bottom. Every 2 months or so, the back of the freezer (where the vent is?) ices over causing the entire unit (refrigerator and freezer) to stop cooling. This problem began probably 1 year ago, and we have solved the problem in the past by leaving the freezer drawer open overnight to defrost it. This seems to work, but it is annoying and results in me having to discard a lot of perishable food from the refrigerator each time it happens. Is there a longer-term solution? What's causing this bi-monthly freeze up?
We have thought that it resulted from not getting the doors of the unit shut all the way, but I have been really careful about that in the past few months and the inside of my refrigerator is room-temperature today. Arg.
I appreciate any advice you have.
My response back to Elizabeth is:
What you are describing sounds like the refrigerator is not going into a defrost cycle. Every so often the refrigerator must go into a defrost cycle to defrost the ice off of the evaporator coil (the rear of the freezer section). I recommend that you call Sears to take a look at your refrigerator.
Elizabeth, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.
Sunday, August 10, 2008
Appliance Question #5 Lint on clothing
I received an email from Joy:
I can't find the answer to something that I am having a big problem with, and I'm hoping that you can help me and my family out.
We bought a Maytag Atlantis Washer and Dryer about 2 years ago. Generally both machines run fine and we are happy with them.
But the washer has a big problem with lint. Dark clothes come out covered in lint, even though I am careful to separate our clothes. I wash only dark clothes by themselves and white clothes by themselves. Yet the dark clothes are covered with white lint.
What am I doing wrong? I don't overload the machine - quite the opposite.
Should I run the washer with no clothes every so often to clean out the lint filter?
Is there some way I can access this self cleaning filter myself and clean it?
I answered via email, but I wanted to share my response with you:
Lint is cotton fiber that has broken away from the cotton garment. Lint likes to attach itself to
synthetic fabrics. When this happens, the user often thinks that the washer is not performing
properly. Therefore, to solve the problem of lint on synthetic fabrics, the user must sort the
items before washing the clothes.
For example:
• The user must separate cottons from permanent press and knits.
• The user must separate light colors from dark colors.
Another cause of lint on clothes is overwashing. This causes the clothes to wear out
faster. To correct the overwashing problem, use only one minute of wash time per pound of
dry laundry with normal soil. Any more time than this is a waste, and it usually does not
get the laundry cleaner.
If the drain cycle is excessive, this, too, will cause lint to remain on the garments.
Check for improper drain hose connections. For example:
• Drain hose is too long (over 10 feet)
• Drain hose is too high (over 5 feet)
• Drain hose is kinked
If excessive drain times still exist, check the following:
• Check the filter, located under the wash basket on most newer models.
• Check to be sure that the pump is operating properly.
• Check for any obstructions in the drain system.
• Check for any obstructions within the water circulatory system of the washer.
Also, check the outer tub for buildup of soap scum which contains a buildup of lint, etc.
Once the inner basket is removed from the washer it will be easier to clean off this substance.
Last of all you must follow the use and care instructions that came with your washer.
Joy, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.
I can't find the answer to something that I am having a big problem with, and I'm hoping that you can help me and my family out.
We bought a Maytag Atlantis Washer and Dryer about 2 years ago. Generally both machines run fine and we are happy with them.
But the washer has a big problem with lint. Dark clothes come out covered in lint, even though I am careful to separate our clothes. I wash only dark clothes by themselves and white clothes by themselves. Yet the dark clothes are covered with white lint.
What am I doing wrong? I don't overload the machine - quite the opposite.
Should I run the washer with no clothes every so often to clean out the lint filter?
Is there some way I can access this self cleaning filter myself and clean it?
I answered via email, but I wanted to share my response with you:
Lint is cotton fiber that has broken away from the cotton garment. Lint likes to attach itself to
synthetic fabrics. When this happens, the user often thinks that the washer is not performing
properly. Therefore, to solve the problem of lint on synthetic fabrics, the user must sort the
items before washing the clothes.
For example:
• The user must separate cottons from permanent press and knits.
• The user must separate light colors from dark colors.
Another cause of lint on clothes is overwashing. This causes the clothes to wear out
faster. To correct the overwashing problem, use only one minute of wash time per pound of
dry laundry with normal soil. Any more time than this is a waste, and it usually does not
get the laundry cleaner.
If the drain cycle is excessive, this, too, will cause lint to remain on the garments.
Check for improper drain hose connections. For example:
• Drain hose is too long (over 10 feet)
• Drain hose is too high (over 5 feet)
• Drain hose is kinked
If excessive drain times still exist, check the following:
• Check the filter, located under the wash basket on most newer models.
• Check to be sure that the pump is operating properly.
• Check for any obstructions in the drain system.
• Check for any obstructions within the water circulatory system of the washer.
Also, check the outer tub for buildup of soap scum which contains a buildup of lint, etc.
Once the inner basket is removed from the washer it will be easier to clean off this substance.
Last of all you must follow the use and care instructions that came with your washer.
Joy, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.
Sunday, July 13, 2008
Appliance Question #4: Microwave parts hard to find
I received an email from Bob:
The label that was on the back of my 'Little Litton' has gone to another world!
I answered him via email, but I wanted to share my response with you:
The serial number is not needed to purchase parts. If you still have the use and care guide that came with the microwave, you might find the model number listed in the guide. You will need the model number to order the parts needed. Also, if you remove the outer cover you might find a model number printed on the inner cabinet or the frame.
Litton Industries, is now owned by Northup Grumman. You might want to give them a call to see if the parts are still available. Another place to look is on the web. There are part companies that sell only microwave parts and they might have what you need.
The cost of purchasing a new microwave vs. the repair of the old microwave is a decision that you might want to consider since the prices for a new microwave is cheaper than repairing the old one.
Bob, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.
The label that was on the back of my 'Little Litton' has gone to another world!
Bottom line, I do not find any S.N. or other data to identify it. Consequently, I do not know how to order a new control knob for the front. Mine died......
I appreciate your offer for assistance. If the knob is universal, perhaps there might be one available in Norman, OK or nearby OKC, OK
Thank you.I answered him via email, but I wanted to share my response with you:
The serial number is not needed to purchase parts. If you still have the use and care guide that came with the microwave, you might find the model number listed in the guide. You will need the model number to order the parts needed. Also, if you remove the outer cover you might find a model number printed on the inner cabinet or the frame.
Litton Industries, is now owned by Northup Grumman. You might want to give them a call to see if the parts are still available. Another place to look is on the web. There are part companies that sell only microwave parts and they might have what you need.
The cost of purchasing a new microwave vs. the repair of the old microwave is a decision that you might want to consider since the prices for a new microwave is cheaper than repairing the old one.
Bob, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.
Monday, June 30, 2008
Appliance Question 3: Dryer will not start
I received an email from Rick:
I HAVE A KENMORE DRYER MODEL 110.84832202. IT WILL NOT START. YOU CAN SELECT THE DRYER CYCLE, EXAMPLE, THE AUTO CYCLE NORMAL, THE TIMER LIGHTS UP ALONG WITH THE OTHER LIGHTS, YOU PRESS AND HOLD THE START BUTTON TO BEGIN. THERE IS A CLICK, LIKE THE SOUND OF A SWITCH, AND THEN A BEEP. THE DRYER DOES NOT START. I CHECKED THE DOOR SWITCH AND THE LIGHT GOES OFF WHEN THE SWITCH IS DEPRESSED, SO I BELIEVE THE DOOR SWITCH IS OK. WHAT COULD BE WRONG?
I answered him via email, but I wanted to share my response with you:
Locate the technical data sheet under the top of the dryer and run the dryer in the service mode to determine the problem. Its possible that a thermal fuse has blown. Also, are there any error codes?
Rick, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.
I HAVE A KENMORE DRYER MODEL 110.84832202. IT WILL NOT START. YOU CAN SELECT THE DRYER CYCLE, EXAMPLE, THE AUTO CYCLE NORMAL, THE TIMER LIGHTS UP ALONG WITH THE OTHER LIGHTS, YOU PRESS AND HOLD THE START BUTTON TO BEGIN. THERE IS A CLICK, LIKE THE SOUND OF A SWITCH, AND THEN A BEEP. THE DRYER DOES NOT START. I CHECKED THE DOOR SWITCH AND THE LIGHT GOES OFF WHEN THE SWITCH IS DEPRESSED, SO I BELIEVE THE DOOR SWITCH IS OK. WHAT COULD BE WRONG?
I answered him via email, but I wanted to share my response with you:
Locate the technical data sheet under the top of the dryer and run the dryer in the service mode to determine the problem. Its possible that a thermal fuse has blown. Also, are there any error codes?
Rick, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.
Thursday, June 26, 2008
Appliance Question 2: Range Cooktop to Hot
I received an email from Fredd:
THE METAL TOP OF MY STOVE HAS BEEN GETTING SO HOT THAT WE STOPPED USING IT. SUGGESTIONS?
I answered him via email, but I wanted to share my response with you:
Check the vent in the rear burner. Make sure that the vent is in the correct position.
Fredd, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.
THE METAL TOP OF MY STOVE HAS BEEN GETTING SO HOT THAT WE STOPPED USING IT. SUGGESTIONS?
I answered him via email, but I wanted to share my response with you:
Check the vent in the rear burner. Make sure that the vent is in the correct position.
Fredd, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.
Sunday, January 13, 2008
Appliance Question 1: Refrigerator Too Cold
I got my first question, from Ken, about his refrigerator.
Ken asked:
I answered him via e-mail, but I wanted to share my response with you:
If the thermostat (cold control) becomes unresponsive to change in the settings, you may have to replace the thermostat. The normal temperature in the fresh food section should be between 35 and 40 degrees F. The freezer section should be between 0 and -8 degrees F. Check the temperatures in the freezer and the fresh food sections before replacing the thermostat.
Ken, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.
Ken asked:
I HAVE A JENN-AIRE SIDE BY SIDE THAT RECENTLY HAS BEEN GETTING EXCESSIVELY COLD IN THE FREEZER SECTION. NO MATTER HOW LOW I SET THE FREEZER, IT STILL WILL NOT COME ABOVE -10 DEGREES. I HAVE MADE SURE THAT THE FREEZER AIR VENTS ARE NOT BLOCKED, BUT THIS DOESN'T SEEM TO HELP. ANY SUGGESTIONS?? THANK YOU VERY MUCH AND HAPPY HOLIDAYS.
I answered him via e-mail, but I wanted to share my response with you:
If the thermostat (cold control) becomes unresponsive to change in the settings, you may have to replace the thermostat. The normal temperature in the fresh food section should be between 35 and 40 degrees F. The freezer section should be between 0 and -8 degrees F. Check the temperatures in the freezer and the fresh food sections before replacing the thermostat.
Ken, let me know if that worked for you. Remember to send your appliance questions to eric@erickleinert.com.
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